Cecilie Bahnsen presented her tenth-anniversary collection, Hana-bi, during Copenhagen Fashion Week. The Japanese word for “fireworks” titled a show that reflected the label’s distinctive tension between fragility and strength. Staged in the industrial setting of Refshaleøen, the presentation unfolded as both a reflection on the past and an exploration of the present.
The collection opened in luminous white, then shifted into silver, a recurring palette change in Bahnsen’s work that here symbolized evolution and renewal. She reached into her archive of the past decade, bringing forward textiles and silhouettes that had defined her brand, and reworked them into new forms. Broderie anglaise fronts contrasted with quilted silk backs, airy skirts revealed sequin briefs, and familiar shapes appeared inverted or reassembled. The results carried the sculptural qualities and couture-level craftsmanship that have become part of her signature.
Fabric acted as the main narrative driver. Bahnsen revived materials such as Myrtia organza, Fiama fil-coupé, and quilted taffeta from earlier collections, reimagining each in fresh configurations. Many of the looks came together through an instinctive, hand-led process rather than a strict seasonal plan. This approach reinforced the intimate connection between the designer’s creative method and the tactile experience of her clothing.
Footwear extended this theme of transformation. Bahnsen reinterpreted white ASICS sneakers, part of the label’s long-running collaboration with the brand, by adding embroidery, foil, and deconstructed linings. These reworked sneakers anchored the ethereal garments with a grounded, contemporary edge. Every element on the runway connected back to the idea of evolution, past designs given new life through shifts in detail and form.
The atmosphere of the show contributed as much to the experience as the garments themselves. August Rosenbaum and Beth Gibbons composed a haunting score that accompanied models drifting through mist and light. The movement felt painterly, with each step reinforcing the visual rhythm of the collection. Guests were drawn into a space where the boundaries between presentation and performance dissolved.
Hana-bi also acted as a tribute to Copenhagen. Bahnsen invited select guests to wear archive pieces, turning them into part of the visual narrative. The gesture connected the audience to the runway, creating a shared moment that extended beyond the confines of the show. The collection is now available directly from the runway or by private appointment at Bahnsen’s newly opened boutique in Copenhagen, offering clients a direct link to the designs they experienced in motion.
