With its collection titled “The summer I never had“, MARKE presents a very elegant, wearable and delicate line. The eye is drawn to tailor-made garments characterised by precise cuts and clean lines, a constant interplay of volume, and many classic elements familiar from the label’s previous lines. However, this line appears even more delicate. It contains a constant interplay of hard and soft elements, which give a hint of the wearer’s identity. This emotional range creatively merges memory and fantasy, history and desire.
This fashion show was part of the format BERLIN CONTEMPORARY and was supported by the Berlin Senate Department for Economic Affairs, Energy and Public Enterprises in cooperation with the Fashion Council Germany. It is also worth mentioning that the show was produced by NEWEST. As location, FÜRST Berlin, the capital’s new address for urban living, lifestyle, culture and more at Ku’damm, was chosen. While workers were still busy completing the building, visitors could access the runway via several floors of the construction site.
The designer was inspired by literary works such as Maurice by E.M. Forster, Swimming in the Dark by Tomasz Jedrowski and Young Mungo by Douglas Stuart. He wants to tell the love stories of queer youth and the difficult circumstances they were facing. He therefore uses clothing, space and sound as means of expression and creates a summer that never was – but could have been. It is an emotional processing in fabric, motion and sound.
Throughout the collection, three different stages of queer coming of age are recounted: first the mask of concealment, then acceptance of the self, and finally the haunting beauty of memory. These phases can be interpreted as resonances: they depict growth, survival and love within difficult surroundings.
When the hiding comes to an end, the structures loosen up and light floods the room. Volume and ease represent freedom and self-determination. Influences of Renaissance-inspired silhouettes and the relaxed draping of the golden era are combined in cotton/viscose denim in white, pigeon blue, and soft rosé. Furthermore they are paired with milles-fleurs prints and semi-transparent checks. The body is no longer hidden, but celebrated.
However, the past is also addressed and remembered in an emotional way: sweat jerseys in grey, soft tailoring, faded checks and fragile layers remind us of the past like smoke – in a very transient, emotional, tangible and imaginable way. Floral motifs appear repeatedly.
Tailored garments represent social order and expectation, while elements of tracksuits, workwear and streetwear reflect ease. The colour palette is dominated by timeless, rather restrained nuances, for instance black, white, pigeon blue, charcoal, grey and rosé. This delicate colour choice sets the emotional tone. Due to its timeless character, this line can be worn by every generation and across many seasons. Various pieces from this collection, such as striking blazers, waistcoats and trousers, can also be easily combined with each other.
“The summer I never had” takes the audience on an emotional journey. What stays in mind is a very wearable, delicate line that stands out thanks to tailor-made garments, a constant interplay of volume and countless classic style elements.
Review by Sussan Zeck for D’SCENE Magazine
Images courtesy of ©MARKE, Photography by Andreas Hofrichter
