Blumarine’s Spring Summer 2026 collection, the second under Creative Director David Koma, was staged as a meditation on dark romanticism. Koma framed the season as a dialogue between light and shadow, reimagining the house’s romantic codes with a gothic edge. Referencing Gothic literature and the love stories that haunt it, the lineup proposed a donna fatale whose wardrobe is built on contrast, grace colliding with gloom, fragility with provocation.
SPRING SUMMER 2026
The butterfly, long an emblem of Blumarine, returned as a central motif, joined by the dragonfly as a symbol of nocturnal mystery. These creatures appeared embroidered into elastic tulle tops and skirts that resembled spiderwebs, sequined into georgette minis, or layered as macramé appliqué across plumetis gowns. Dresses in satin and georgette with butterfly prints shifted into leopard-like patterns, while long ruffle dresses carried camouflage graphics, blurring sweetness into menace. Koma’s command of flou gave movement to tiered georgette, taffeta, and lace, creating silhouettes that alternated between diaphanous softness and sculptural tension.
Eveningwear emerged with a heightened sense of drama. A black floor-length gown paired a beaded bodice embroidered in the image of an insect’s spine with a tulle skirt crawling with butterfly, dragonfly, and spider motifs. Other gowns shimmered under multicolored embroidery or cascaded in tiered constructions that moved like drifting smoke. Jackets revealed unexpected ruffled georgette panels at the waist, while skinny trousers carried butterfly lace peeking beneath the waistband. Cargo trousers and shearling-trimmed jackets in blush and sage extended the play of contrasts, inserting utility into a collection otherwise steeped in fantasy.
Accessories sharpened the gothic current. Crosses set in rhinestones adorned chokers, multi-chain necklaces, and body charms. Dragonflies appeared as breastplates on metal bras, as pendants on sunglasses, and as bag charms. Hammered cuffs and armlets doubled as second skin, while sunglasses with butterfly-shaped lenses carried studs or dangling crosses. The collection’s jewelry blurred the line between adornment and armor, reinforcing the darker edge of Koma’s vision.
The season’s bags carried Blumarine signatures into new territory. The infamous derrière messenger reappeared, this time punctured with piercings and bug charms. Butterfly backpacks in leather and canvas versions trimmed in shearling extended the insect theme, while crescent “hat bags” resurfaced with cut-out motifs. Shoes balanced precision and play: satin stilettos hung with charms of scarabs and spiders, while boots reinterpreted pump-like stitching or introduced tubular silhouettes with shearling trims.
David Koma distilled Blumarine’s romantic heritage into something shadowy and unexpected. It was a collection built on dualities, sweetness turned somber, delicacy reinforced with metal, softness framed by structure. By pulling gothic tropes into the house’s butterfly lexicon, Koma gave Blumarine a darker vocabulary that feels both faithful and refreshingly new.
