Chloé introduced its Summer 2026 collection, “Entre Deux,” as a direct exploration of what couture could mean within the house. The collection examined the paradox of a label founded on democratic ease while drawing inspiration from couture traditions. By reconsidering the ideas that Gaby Aghion embraced and rejected, the collection pushed Chloé into new creative territory without abandoning its original foundations.
The concept began with Aghion’s own words: she loved couture but found it out of date and artificial. Her goal was to create clothing of quality and beauty visible in everyday life, not restricted to salons. The Summer 2026 collection revisited this starting point, asking how Chloé could create silhouettes that carry form but remain unconstrained, balancing structure with lightness. This pursuit shaped the vision of an “entre deux” – existing in the space between couture and ready-to-wear.
The early days of Chloé at Café Flore and Brasserie Lipp in the 1950s informed the approach. At that time, the house looked toward couture silhouettes but avoided boning, lining, and padding. Instead, the clothes carried an air of informality while maintaining craft. The Summer 2026 collection revived this ethos, developing pieces with an ease that still acknowledged technique and construction.
The collection emphasized draping as an instinctive and personal gesture. Volumes took shape through pleating, knotting, and wrapping, creating movement and a sense of airiness. This spontaneous approach was carefully refined to balance freedom with precision. The gesture of draping gave life to silhouettes that combined form with flow, offering a rethinking of couture methods in a Chloé vocabulary.
Fabric choices underlined this direction. Instead of indulging in ornate textiles, the collection focused on simple cotton poplins, treated as “poor” fabrics transformed through drape. The grandeur of couture-inspired techniques met the ordinariness of everyday materials, creating a contrast that defined the season. Archive floral prints from the 1950s and 1960s were redrawn, connecting the new designs to Chloé’s past. Outerwear archetypes appeared in light cottons, reshaped to reflect the collection’s airy sensibility.
The choice of venue reinforced the message. Shown inside a UNESCO conference room, the collection took place in a modernist setting tied to the years of Chloé’s foundation. The location symbolized openness, freedom, and creative exchange, aligning with the values at the core of the house. “Entre Deux” expressed a balance that resonated with Gaby Aghion’s original vision, clothing of quality, designed for life beyond the salon.
