The TYPE-XI Spiber project marks the launch of a collaborative initiative between A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE and Spiber Inc., centered on material research and applied design. The project sets out to respond to resource constraints through technological development, placing material performance and production logic at the center of the design process. The collaboration approaches sustainability through concrete experimentation with next-generation fibers.
Spiber continues to address limitations tied to natural resources by working with proteins as a material base. One of its key developments, Brewed Protein fiber, introduces a new category of protein fibers produced through microbial fermentation using plant-derived raw materials. This process allows Spiber to engineer fibers at the molecular level, enabling material properties that differ from conventional animal-derived, plant-based, or synthetic fibers. As the first artificial protein fiber material mass-produced by the company, Brewed Protein fiber offers biodegradability and reduced land and water requirements when compared to materials such as cashmere and wool.
A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE identified alignment with Spiber’s long-term vision and began exploring how protein fibers could function within product development. The TYPE-XI Spiber project builds on this exploration by applying the material’s properties directly to garment construction. The collaboration treats material behavior as an active design driver, using fiber interaction to generate form.
The project introduces two items: a dress and a bolero. Both pieces use Brewed Protein fibers in their natural, undyed state within the weft yarns. By combining these fibers with polyester yarns and activating differences in shrinkage during processing, the garments develop pleated structures through the material itself.
The pleats appear as an outcome of fiber interaction, giving each piece structure without applied ornamentation. The beige-hued color reflects the preserved tone of the Brewed Protein fiber, reinforcing the project’s focus on material integrity and process transparency. Both items come in a single size, emphasizing the project’s role as a research-driven offering.
The TYPE-XI dress is priced at $2,595 USD, while the bolero is priced at $1,880 USD. Each piece functions as a demonstration of how engineered protein fibers can operate within apparel, translating laboratory innovation into wearable form.
Spiber Inc., founded in 2007 and based in Yamagata, Japan, operates as a biotechnology venture focused on material solutions inspired by natural systems and circular thinking. Through its Brewed Protein material platform, the company applies precision fermentation to create adaptable materials designed for use across industries including apparel, food, and automotive sectors.
Further insight into the collaboration appears in DIALOGUES, published on the A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE brand page. These articles document conversations between Spiber representative Kazuhide Sekiyama, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae, and the engineering team, offering additional perspective on the technical and conceptual framework behind the TYPE-XI Spiber project.
