David Koma approached Blumarine Fall Winter 2026 through the figure of the diva, treating glamour as an expression of authority, theatricality, and emotional contrast. Presented as a continuation of his exploration of the house archive, the collection draws from Blumarine’s photographic history, particularly its collaborations with Helmut Newton. Koma connected this legacy to Venice, using the city’s cinematic and architectural language as a framework for sculptural silhouettes and surface ornamentation. The result unfolds through a palette dominated by black, red, white, silver, and gold, reinforcing the tension between restraint and spectacle.
FALL WINTER 2026
The rose, long associated with Blumarine, appears as the central motif across the collection. Koma introduced it through prints, embroidery, and structural embellishment. Red and black rose graphics spread across capes and balloon-skirt mini dresses, while sculptural embroidery traced the contours of black vinyl bombers, chiffon dresses, and denim trousers. Metallic treatments transformed roses into silver Chantilly lace patterns and gold lamé embellishments, extending across mini dresses, tops, and skirts. Chainmail constructions introduced another dimension, with rose-printed gold surfaces shaping dresses and accessories that carried weight and texture.
Koma developed the rose further through dimensional construction. Knitted cardigans incorporated three-dimensional strands resembling petals, while crochet and lace dresses used cut-outs and appliqué to create layered surfaces. Frayed ruffles and petal-like trims appeared on crepon dresses, crinoline silhouettes, and tailored suits. Baroque cameo buttons introduced symbolic references drawn from Blumarine’s archive and Venetian iconography, including lions, butterflies, and the house’s monogram. These details appeared across structured jackets and mini-skirt suits, reinforcing the sculptural quality of the garments.
Outerwear expanded the theatrical direction of the collection. Goat hair textures introduced volume and graphic contrast, forming diamond patterns across coats and capes. Sculpted wool coats incorporated embroidered cuffs and exaggerated sleeves, while lace bodysuits paired with oversized boas emphasized silhouette and surface simultaneously. Corsets constructed from goat hair introduced rigid, defined shapes and incorporated metal Venetian lion motifs, reinforcing the connection between ornament and structure.
Hardware elements introduced a distinct counterpoint to the softness of lace and chiffon. Metal cage constructions evolved from cameo button motifs, worn over denim or as standalone garments. Jewelry amplified these references through layered gold necklaces, chokers, rings, and earrings featuring crosses and crystal-set bows. Footwear extended the same vocabulary, with pointed slingback pumps reinforced by metal toe caps and jeweled crosses that introduced weight and structure.
Blumarine Fall Winter 2026 positions the diva as both symbol and construction. Koma translated historical references, rose iconography, and Venetian ornament into garments defined by structure, surface, and sculptural precision.
