During the Fall Winter 2026 presentation, Noir Kei Ninomiya revealed a new footwear collaboration with PUMA that extends the designer’s experimental language into the structure of a sneaker. The partnership centers on the PUMA Speedcat, a silhouette originally rooted in motorsport culture. Ninomiya reshapes the shoe through sculptural surface treatment, translating the collection’s central flower motif directly onto the upper.
SNEAKERS
The Speedcat appears in several variations throughout the show, each defined by clusters of translucent three-dimensional flowers stitched across the shoe’s surface. These elements cover the suede upper like a soft armor of petals. In white and deep charcoal tones, the flowers create a tactile structure that transforms the sleek racing profile into something almost organic. The lacing system remains visible, threading through the floral clusters, which reinforces the contrast between the technical base and the decorative overlay.
This approach reflects the design vocabulary that defines Noir Kei Ninomiya. Since launching the label in 2012 under the Comme des Garçons umbrella, Ninomiya has built a reputation for garments constructed through modular components and unusual fabrication techniques. His clothing often relies on linking small units together to create sculptural volumes. The sneakers echo this logic. Instead of treating the shoe as a smooth surface, Ninomiya builds a layered skin from repeated elements.
The floral clusters directly reference the runway collection, where blossoms appeared as structural devices across garments and headpieces. On the footwear, the flowers become miniature architectural components. Their translucent material catches light differently depending on color, creating subtle variation in the surface. In the mint version, the effect feels almost icy, while the pink pair amplifies the theatrical tone of the runway.
Despite the sculptural additions, the Speedcat’s recognizable proportions remain intact. The low profile sole and narrow shape preserve the original motorsport silhouette. This balance between familiarity and transformation plays an important role in the collaboration. Ninomiya does not replace the identity of the Speedcat but instead reinterprets it through the lens of his design practice.
On the runway, the sneakers appeared beneath several of the show’s key looks. Models walked in them while wearing voluminous black garments constructed from complex modular assemblies, metallic cages, and exaggerated floral forms. Against these dramatic silhouettes, the footwear introduced a grounded element while still participating in the same visual language.
The collaboration also highlights the dialogue between sportswear and experimental fashion that continues to shape contemporary runway footwear. PUMA contributes a well-known performance silhouette, while Ninomiya overlays his sculptural sensibility. The result sits between sneaker culture and avant-garde craft.
Although PUMA and Noir Kei Ninomiya presented the shoes during the Fall Winter 2026 show as a preview, the appearance suggests a broader collaboration to come. The Speedcat platform offers a flexible base for Ninomiya’s material experimentation, and the floral construction hints at further variations that could evolve from the concept.
