Ruohan presents the Fall Winter 2026 collection under the title Forty Gestures. The season develops through a process that begins with fragments and gradually builds a structure through relationships between form, material, and motion. The collection approaches clothing through a method similar to sculptural study, where simplified shapes reveal structural logic before a complete garment appears.
FALL WINTER 2026 WOMENSWEAR
The process begins with miniature forms assembled from colored blocks. These models capture the most fundamental proportions and tensions of each shape. At this stage the objects function as structural sketches. They outline possibilities for garments while remaining separate from finished clothing. Each model records a specific logic of proportion. When viewed together, these models establish a grid of structures that guide the development of the collection.
This growing set of forms functions as a map of shapes. The studio refers to this system as an “SKU board” of structures. Every addition becomes a coordinate within the broader composition. Through this method the collection develops through accumulation. Improvisation enters the process within a defined framework. The approach accepts unexpected results that appear while the structure continues to expand.
Movement forms the conceptual starting point of the season. Each look develops from the observation of a gesture. A lean, a turn, a stretch, or a slight tilt becomes the source of a silhouette. These gestures appear through paintings that record bodily actions. Clothing then translates these actions into structure. The wearer performs the movement while the material determines the contour that emerges.
Through this interaction between body and textile, garments function as points of balance. Motion generates outlines. Outlines transform into structural garments. Clothing therefore shifts away from static form and becomes a system that reacts to the body’s activity.
Material exploration draws inspiration from rocks found in nature. Rocks record time and pressure through gradual transformation. The collection approaches textiles through a similar concept. Processes alter the structural qualities of materials, creating fabrics that shift between categories.
Knitting and weaving intersect through this experimentation. Felting compresses knit structures until they achieve the density associated with woven textiles. At the same time, woven fabrics with loose construction gain the flexibility associated with knitwear. Through these processes materials no longer follow fixed definitions. Their character emerges through use and transformation.
The presentation took place inside Ruohan’s new office in Paris, located beside a river. The setting included a courtyard where two fish appear within the space. The studio described the environment as carrying a familiar scent that recalls the experience of entering the brand’s previous workspace in Shanghai near the Suzhou River.
The show adopted a salon format. This arrangement placed each look close to the viewer and encourages attention to the collection as a complete system. Through this intimate structure, every garment connected to the broader series of gestures that define the season.
