The Pre-Fall 2024 collection by Giambattista Valli Paris is a departure from the designer’s usual nomadic themes, focusing instead on the dynamic energy of urban life. This collection is a visual narrative that captures human motion and interaction within a cityscape, showcasing a streamlined aesthetic.
Inspired by Robert Longo‘s “Men in the Cities” series, the collection echoes the intense energy and tension of Longo’s large-scale charcoal drawings. These artworks feature men and women in dynamic, contorted poses, conveying a sense of movement and emotional depth. Similarly, Valli’s collection emphasizes the importance of gestures and movement, highlighting the wearer’s actions as integral to the garments’ appeal.
The color palette is dominated by black and white, punctuated with muted hues of green and magenta. This choice of colors brings a sharp focus to the silhouette as well as a strong visual impact, reminiscent of Longo’s use of contrast in his drawings. The collection plays with light and texture, adding layers of complexity to the clean lines and shapes of the garments.
Rich bouclés, intricate textures, and embroidered details are evident in floor-length coats and cropped jacket suits. The collection also features monochromatic sequin nets, “Intarsio” macramés in sequins or eco leather, and exquisite Chantilly lace motifs.
The collection’s prints, such as “Rose-mania,” “Tapisserie,” “Peonies,” and “Kaleido Blend,” are a nod to the Valli woman’s travels, offering colorful, abstract, and eclectic designs. The “Papier Peint” embroideries on soft tulle or micro-sequins create a visual effect resembling floral ramages climbing the body.
Footwear in the collection includes variations of black velvet ballet flats, adorned with crystal lines or silk duchesse bows. The footwear range also features an array of styles, including “Chic-Tie” satin bows and suede and velvet ankle boots.
The Maison’s “AirBag” returns in this collection, serving as a canvas for crystal and pearl embroideries, as well as “Tapisserie” prints on soft leather or astrakan imitation eco fur. The “Esopo” bag, a metal turtle shell design with a leather strap, is updated this season in gold, adding a touch of luxury.
