Altuzarra ’s SS25 collection is an exploration of diverse influences, merging different textures, references, and eras into a narrative. This season reflects the evolving nature of the brand, focusing on designs that mirror the practical, layered way people dress in real life. With an authentic approach to storytelling through clothing, the collection offers an intricate blend of craftsmanship and conceptual design.
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In a shift from previous seasons, where inspiration stemmed from stories, this collection draws influence from the physical forms that contain them: books. The art of bookbinding is reflected in silk dresses, which are split with seams that evoke the feel of overlapping paper sheets. Black-and-white silk layers mirror the contrast of ink on a page, with dresses draping in a fluid motion that mimics words stretching across a book. Knife pleats and exposed creases emphasize the tactile, paper-like elements that run through the collection.
Key pieces include a leather trench with a detachable capelet, evolving from the caped barn jacket seen last season. Dramatic nipped waists and hourglass silhouettes recall the traditional Spanish gowns depicted by Velázquez and Goya, adding a historical edge to the collection. Meanwhile, crinoline dresses and organza cocoon shapes are deconstructed, offering a contemporary interpretation of Renaissance-era volumes. Tailoring plays a central role, with standout pieces like the ‘Dash’ Pant—a cropped, barrel-leg trouser. Broderie anglaise eyelets appear in exaggerated sizes, lending whimsical texture to airy chiffon skirts.
The collection’s fabrics also draw from traditional paper crafts, with a focus on natural fibers like viscose and papery yarns derived from wood pulp. Marbled floral prints, inspired by Florentine techniques, were initially developed on paper and later printed onto silk. One of the season’s most inventive pieces is the “bodies print,” created through a collaborative transfer process where a model’s painted form was pressed onto vellum silk. Additionally, surrealist poetry prints, born from word exercises by the Altuzarra team, further underscore the collection’s creative spirit.
Color plays a vital role in capturing the energy of the season, with a palette ranging from soft desert hues to vibrant, imperial tones. Playfulness extends to accessories, with the introduction of the ‘Origami’ Bag, a minimalist piece inspired by paper folding. This innovative bag, crafted from a single rectangular leather sheet, folds entirely flat. The ‘Athena Hobo’ Bag, featuring a rounded silhouette and a leather-braided metal strap, continues the collection’s focus on thoughtful construction.
Seventies- and eighties-inspired costume jewelry rounds out the collection, recalling pieces one might find tucked away in a vintage jewelry box. These sculptural, bold accessories complement the hardware detailing seen throughout the collection, adding a nostalgic touch. With its balance of history, craftsmanship, and playful expression, Altuzarra’s SS25 collection offers a contemporary take on luxury.
View collection in the Gallery below:
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