Dior Men unveiled its Fall Winter 2025 collection at Paris Fashion Week, under the creative leadership of Kim Jones. Presented on January 24, 2025, the show drew inspiration from Christian Dior’s iconic Ligne H collection of 1954-55 while examining the evolution of menswear through a contemporary lens. The result was a masterful exploration of transformation, both in fashion and in the stories clothing can tell.
Kim Jones’s creative process drew from historical fashion shifts, particularly the transition from ornate 18th-century designs to the more linear and utilitarian styles of the 19th century. However, this was not about recreating the past. Kim Jones explained that while much of the collection refers to the history of fashion, it is not about creating historical fashion. He said the collection aimed to say something about the present day. By revisiting Christian Dior’s legacy, Jones sought to capture the essence of the brand while tailoring it for today’s audience.
The collection featured a dynamic interaction of structured and fluid silhouettes, from fitted tailoring to voluminous outerwear. Robes and opera coats borrowed from the women’s archive added depth, their exaggerated forms cinched with belts for a fresh interpretation. Fabrics such as silk and satin dominated the collection, their sheen and drapery creating a sense of movement and light. Despite the opulent materials, the designs maintained a restrained elegance, stripping back excessive ornamentation to focus on refined details.
This theme of transformation extended to the garments themselves. For instance, a coat that could be converted into a skirt demonstrated the innovative approach that defines Jones’s vision. The collection explored duality, where masculine tailoring integrated elements traditionally associated with feminine couture.
The figure of Casanova served as a thematic touchstone for the collection, embodying an extravagant style with a connection of masculine and feminine elements. This duality was reflected in details like masks, a nod to the 18th-century aesthetic, and in leather goods that combined soft, pliable forms with precise hardware. Dior’s Roller bags in shearling and Normandie totes in exceptional leather represented this balance.
Shoes were another highlight, mixing traditional menswear craftsmanship with couture influences. From knotted satin “bow caps” on classic leather dress shoes to hybrid trainers featuring archival embroidery from 1961, the footwear reflected both technical skill and creative experimentation.
Intricate embroidery stood out as a defining feature of the collection. The main embroidery, inspired by Christian Dior’s 1948 Pondichéry look, appeared throughout the designs. It culminated in the show’s closing piece: a striking pink robe adorned with the recreated motif. This embroidery extended beyond garments, influencing accessories such as sterling silver chatelaines featuring the tools of a couturier.
Other embroidered patterns, such as pinstripes and herringbone, were reimagined with intricate glass beading to create textures that felt both familiar and new. Even the simplest elements, like raindrop motifs, became extraordinary through the use of varying bead sizes and expert craftsmanship.
DIRECTION: VILLA EUGÉNIE
SHOW CONCEPT: KIM JONES
MUSIC: TIME LAPSE (MICHAEL NYMAN), PERFORMED BY MICHAEL NYMAN BAND, © MICHAEL NYMAN LTD / CHESTER MUSIC, (P) 2018 MICHAEL NYMAN LTD, COURTESY OF WISE MUSIC FRANCE
MUSIC SUPERVISION: SIMON PARRIS
MOVEMENT DIRECTION: LES CHILD
STYLING: MELANIE WARD
CASTING: SHELLEY DURKAN
MAKE-UP: PETER PHILIPS FOR DIOR
HAIR: GUIDO PALAU
HATS: STEPHEN JONES
DIOR JOAILLERIE
VICTOIRE DE CASTELLANE
EXTRA SPECIAL THANKS AND LOVE TO: AMANDA HARLECH
A WARM THANKS TO THE ATELIERS AND THE SUPPLIERS OF THE HOUSE
