For FW25, Marine Serre staged a runway show at La Monnaie de Paris, a venue rich with symbolism. The historic site, the oldest French institution, is synonymous with opulance, yet Serre’s collection challenges the dominance of financial power in fashion. Guests were invited with a custom coin stamped with the moon on one side and Serre’s profile on the other, less a token of commerce than a talisman of independence.
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The collection marks a defining moment for Serre, both creatively and personally. At 30 years old, with seven years of building her brand behind her, she embraces a new level of confidence. Across 47 looks, she refines her vision, crafting silhouettes that embody structure and sensuality. A cinched waist, powerful shoulders, and references to femme fatales of the 1950s and 1980s shape the collection’s identity. The opening look, Serre’s signature catsuit, returns in moon-tattooed leather, worn by a masked figure evoking Irma Vep, the cinematic anti-heroine.
Leather plays a defining role, sculpting the body in sharp, precise lines. A midi dress with futuristic shoulders captures the tension between power and desire, while upcycled biker leather is transformed into couture gowns that carry the spirit of rebellion. Accessories mirror this bold energy: the AURORA bag, the MS CRUSH heels, and a jewelry capsule collection thatcombines tribal elements with classical motifs. These pieces build an image of a woman who is untamed yet composed, a presence that commands attention.
Sustainability remains a core principle, but Serre approaches it through reinvention rather than restriction. She reworks discarded elements, coins, medals, antique watches, and furs, into couture embellishments, restoring value to forgotten objects. Time itself becomes a theme, as vintage watch bracelets are reimagined as jewelry in a venue synonymous with currency. This collection operates like an excavation of the past, uncovering fragments of history and transforming them into wearable statements.
The collection unfolds in a palette of white, black, and deep red, the latter pulsating with an energy that shifts between passion and power. A carmine velvet tracksuit refines sportswear into something fit for the red carpet, while red mesh and satin channel a hypnotic intensity. The visual language nods to David Lynch’s surreal universe, particularly Twin Peaks‘ Red Room, where time and logic distort.
At its core, the collection plays with perception. Trompe-l’oeil techniques mimic textures, oversized silhouettes command presence, and garments shift between archetypes. A voluminous puffer, a tribute to André Leon Talley, recalls the grandeur of Chesterfield furniture, while recycled nylon is crafted to resemble leather. The trench coat is deconstructed into layered fragments, reshaped into something entirely new. With FW25, Marine Serre creates an experience that challenges certainty, urging us to embrace the unknown with conviction.
