Designer Bora Aksu presented his Spring Summer 2020 collection, inspired by the Persian princess Taj Saltaneh’s journey from a young princess to an activist, on Friday, September 13th, during the ongoing London Fashion Week.
This season luxury eyewear brand Linda Farrow provided the AW19 Daisy sunglasses for the show.
“Persian princess Taj Saltaneh of the Qajar Dynasty was a writer, a painter, an intellectual and an activist who hosted literary salons at her house once a week. She was fluent in Arabic and French and played the violin. She was the first woman in court to take off the hijab and wear western clothes. The first to write a memoir and a vocal critic of the monarchy her father and brother ruled. She blamed incompetent monarchs for many of the problems that Iran was facing at the time including poverty, the lack of education for masses and women’s rights. Hers was a lone female voice advocating for change and democracy.
In a collection dedicated to Taj, Aksu creates garments that reflect these contrasts. On one side the brightest shades of coral pink, burnt orange and powder pink come alive in the form of tulle, silk and pleated organza moving freely and therefore representing princess Qajar’s flamboyant personality; on the other, serious brocades and masculine tailoring reflect her disguised andsuppressed self.
The colour palette is inspired by Colombian artist Maria Berrio’s paintings and collages which bring a sense of eclectic summer breeze. The combination of soft, feminine fabrics and structured shapes creates romantic yet strong, bold silhouettes. A mix between traditional masculinity and sophisticated femininity is also visible in the embroidered and printed dresses. The silhouettes are voluminous and rich and include long tailored cocoon coats, cropped tailored jackets, capes, shirts and skirts that function as separates.“
Images courtesy of © SPRING London / BORA AKSU