Artistic director Daniel Roseberry presented the Schiaparelli Haute Couture SS21 collection via digital lookbook, during the first day of the ongoing Paris Haute Couture Week. In his third collection for the French Maison, Roseberry challenges the idea of what couture is, and should be, by making clothes that respect the tradition of not only this Maison, but the artistry behind it, while at the same time exploding the cliches associated with the genre. This collection is a tribute to both the work behind the magic, and the magic itself.
We started by discarding the usual silhouettes of couture. I wanted to take pieces that aren’t “supposed” to be shown in this context—pants, for example; a bomber jacket—and invite people to see them anew. The techniques, too, are unexpected: a pair of blouson leather pants has an elastic waist; a pair of denim jeans is reimagined in stone washed silk duchess and embellished with dangling gold padlocks. The fabrics are equally inventive and disruptive: along with overdyed silk faille, molded leather, and crisp dry hand taffeta, there’s also silk-velvet bonded to neoprene, and a column gown draped in sinuous silk jersey.
– Daniel Roseberry
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