A lot is unknown when we think about the direction of Versace and it’s runway collections. The brand is certainly significantly growing into a direction helmed by Donatella Versace but also guided by the business blueprint that is Capri Holdings. The route is clear, Versace is using the runway to push forward the label’s symbols. The previous season established the brand’s new monogram, ready to stay for the seasons to come. This season, focuses on the luxury item defying time while giving longevity to the powerhouses such as Hermès and Louis Vuitton – the silk scarf or as the brand prefers in this case foulard. Versace puts its scarf in and around the spotlight for the Spring Summer 2022 runway in Milan – the 1st back to audience runway since the start of the still raging pandemic.
“The foulard is a fundamental component of Versace’s heritage and character. It’s acted as a canvas for our iconic prints and is worn in multiple ways from knotted tops to headscarves to bag accessories, it’s a way of adding Versace attitude to any look. The foulard has been with us since the very beginning of the brand, but this season turns everything on its head, it is no longer fluid or dreamy, the scarf is provocative, sexy, wound tight,” shares Donatella Versace with the press.
To go a few lines up, if you are now sitting and wondering what is the damn difference between the foulard and scarf, we are obliged to offer an answer. Both can pretty much be the same, yet the design reflected in the size of pretty much a square piece of fabric, defines whether the piece is foulard or a scarf. In this case foulards are mostly meant to be worn as a headpiece, just as Donatella and her team styled them. Yet, you can easily make your Versace foulard into a scarf by simply wearing it around your neck. Not only are scarves a great addition to any brand’s roster of products, they are also incredibly easy to make and the most perfect gift you can grab when you are in doubt. Yet, what remains the question with Versace is the brand’s price point, while running in the lane of luxury houses, it’s business family, under the helm of Michael Kors is leaning towards the more commercial price point. The question is for how long will Versace perform this balancing act. Versace foulard can now be fetched for anywhere in the price range from 200 to 400 euros, and it is already even available in the La Greca monogram so perfectly executed in less than a year. Is it ready to go back in the spotlight and compete in the top brand scarf game?
The new collection presented for the Spring Summer 2022 runway season with a total of seventy-nine looks, tones down the label’s flare to dare. The safe zone Versace is in right now is not new turf for the label, yet what we are seeing seems like a strong act from power-players such as Inditex yet under a vastly different price point. The collection is offering the all-time Versace favourites. The famed oversize safety pin enhanced mini dresses, are still owning the slick cut while featuring layers inspired by the Versace scarf. The theme of the collection goes into fully scarf-taken men’s and women’s dresses sent down Milan’s runway under the scarf-covered ceiling. Yet while not breaking the scarf ceiling the brand is also sending down the runway a slew of monochrome looks, not shying away from the necessary basics while the same are by default deemed as unnecessary on a catwalk. That is especially the case of maximalist brands such as Versace. Yet whatever the season the basic pieces are what sells and resells beyond the runway in any store.
What is certainly refreshing, is Donatella’s back-to-school take on the Spring Summer 2022 runway. Varsity jackets are adorned by Grease like Donatella signatures, while the inevitable knit vests are adorned with what can only be defined as the unofficial “Versace Academy” crust. But what is sadly disappointing is the label’s flirtation with the PVC fabric. Rubber like shirts, tube tops, and even whole dresses are apparently replacing the leather on the runway in one way or another. In the decade where fashion industry is rightfully so questioning its relation with fur and leather, a stand against plastic materials should not even be up for a debate.
The runways showstopper, while meant to be Dua Lipa on her first catwalk, heads into the realm of her signature lacklustre stage presence. Instead of Lipa, who is also the face of the label’s Fall Winter campaign, stealing the show, she finds it hard to compete with a bag thrown going viral this morning. In case you missed it, once again Versace runway is about the powerhouse supermodels. This time Naomi Campbell went viral by throwing her runway bag into the lap of a front raw guest. With fashion and celeb-drama fans speculating the supermodel was actually not even into wearing the bag. I can’t help but wonder, in a true Carrie Bradshaw writing mannerism, did the guest return the bag? Or is it already on eBay, time to check on that right after wrapping up this. Finally, does Versace need celebrity appearances when it can always fall back on its signature supermodels such as Naomi? Whatever the answer Campbell once again stole the show. We all want her to throw a bag at us.
Whether you’d be returning that handbag thrown into your lap by Naomi, let us know in the comments. In the meantime discover the complete collection in our gallery above.
Words by Zarko Davinic, DSCENE Editor.
Designer Donatella Versace
Fashion Editor: Jacob K
Hair Stylist: Guido Palau
Makeup Artist: Pat McGrath
Casting Director: Piergiorgio Del Moro
Models: Adele Aldighieri, Adut Akech, Akon Changkou, Alexander Olowu, Alma C, Alyda Grace, Anita Pozzo, Anok Yai, Aylah Peterson, Barbara Valente, Cara Taylor, Catarina Guedes, Chloe Oh, David Trulík, Dua Lipa, Dusan Latinski, Emily Ratajkowski, Evelina Lauren, Fernando Lindez, Fran Summers, Gigi Hadid, Grace Elizabeth, He Cong, Hiandra Martinez, Imaan Hammam, Irina Shayk, Jason Gomes, Jefferson Obuseri, Joji Iwase, Kiki Willems, Laiza de Moura, Loli Bahia, Lourdes Leon, Majesty Amare, Malika Louback, Mario Lopez, Mica Argañaraz, Mika Schneider, Mila van Eeten, Mirthe Dijk, Momo Ndiaye, Mona Tougaard, Nacho Penín, Naomi Campbell, Ondrej Mokoš, Pierre Ramos, Precious Lee, Raynara Negrine, Rianne Van Rompaey, Selena Forrest, Sherry Shi, Simone Bricchi, Sora Choi, Steinberg , Stella Maxwell, Ugbad , Victor Vuokko, Vittoria Ceretti