Luxury house DIOR unveiled its new Fall 2023 Collection, that explores feelings and emotions that connect the brand, as well as designer Maria Grazia Chiuri with India and its culture. Chiuri celebrates work relations and friendship linking her to India and Karishma Swali, who directs the Chanakya ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft, in Mumbai. The collection, that fuses different heritages and fashion cultures, also pays tribute to Marc Bohan (Christian Dior‘s creative director from 1960 to 1989), who presented over hundred silhouettes, in April 1962, in Mumbai and Delhi, India.
“Maria Grazia Chiuri has chosen palettes of colors and materials that exalt influences shared with Karishma Swali. Working on timeless clothing shapes which have stayed intact through time allows Chiuri to (re)design her favorite models. A color block sequence dedicated to silks – in shades of green, yellow, pink and purple –, in homage to Marc Bohan, comes in the form of sophisticated evening coats, sari-inspired straight skirts and traditional Indian cuts, as well as pants, little boleros, jackets and brassieres.
The embroidery – both protagonist and means of research, opening up all the possibilities of this craft – and becomes a tool for appraising, through the relationship between Dior and the Chanakya ateliers and also the Chanakya School of Craft, the multiple landscapes of India: this cartography mixes and spotlights the various techniques which, via the School’s work processes, become the realm of a women’s patrimony and an instrument at once of inventiveness and empowerment. Geometric shapes frame the gold and silver sequins or strass; decorative motifs come forth in this kaleidoscope of colors and the toile de Jouy is enhanced by elements of Indian scenery; the Jardin Indien floral drawing punctuates the silk of pyjamas, shirts and dresses.” – from Dior