The Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2024 collection, by Peter Do in his second runway showing for the brand, presents dialogue between protection and projection, commenting on the relationship between how we live and how we choose to dress. This collection is a lineup of hyper-adaptable clothing, footwear, and accessories. Designed to offer mega-protection while projecting individual identity to the world, these pieces are grounded in everyday functionality, offering endless combinations to people of New York.
Within the 50 looks, highlights includes the introduction of a newly-developed silk bubble wrap fabric, crafted into bulletproof vests, bomber jackets, and pants, following the collection’s theme of protection. The collection also explores hybrid suiting, casual and conscious design with suit wool at the front and ponte jersey at the back.
The collection integrates the concept of the expandable suitcase into wool cashmere sweaters, hoodies, and pants through a system of zippers, allowing garments to adapt in form—softening, shielding, cocooning, expanding, constricting, revealing, and introducing an element of drama. This transformative approach extends to structured details that contour the body, vintage wool suiting, shirting, knit, and sweat materials, offering varied levels of silhouette definition from zoot suits to second-skin fits.
Adding a vibrant splash of cultural homage, the iconic red-white-blue bag prints from Hong Kong are mismatched across denim, woven leather pants, suiting, skirts, and shirts, in a range of materials from jacquard knit to handwoven leather and printed silk. The collection also features oversized double-face wool coats and shiny nylon padded puffers for mega-protection, and viscose hole-punch dresses and suiting inspired by perforated construction tarps. The collection’s exploration of form and function extends to silk blouses with convertible design features, padded knitwear inspired by astronaut suiting, and the use of fireman’s safety orange.
Accessories play a critical role, with an array of bags and shoes designed for everyday wear, from belt bags and neck pillows to waterproof hoods and mini to larger bags, alongside footwear that ranges from practical everyday options to weaponized and galvanized designs.
See all the looks from the collection in the Gallery below:
i never understood smoke on the runway…. you can’t even see the looks properly from the stupid smoke effect…. peter is doing justice for helmut lang
exactly! I am so annoyed by these photos! You can’t see anything well… what is the point?!!!