Fashion house Vivienne Westwood unveiled its Autumn Winter 2024.25 Collection that explores the enduring influence of literature and history on fashion design. Inspired by the passionate and tragic dimensions of Johan Wolfgang von Goethe’s “The Sorrows of Young Werther,” a novel that sparked the Romantic movement and enchanted figures as monumental as Napoleon, the brand brings a collection that fuses the aesthetic sensibilities of the early 19th century with contemporary flair. This collection examines the empire style movement, characterized by its Napoleonic aesthetics and the luxurious opulence reminiscent of Imperial Rome and also infuses these classical references with modern sensibilities, creating a bridge between past and present.
Incorporating full sleeves, high collars, and elegant drapery, the collection pays homage to military uniforms and the grandeur of classical antiquity, while also grounding itself in practicality and environmental consciousness. The use of gilt metal frames, equestrian polished leather accessories, and delicate dancing slippers against the backdrop of an English farm captures the essence of bucolic romanticism, blending the pastoral with the martial.
Fabric choice plays a main role, with draped Lochcarron of Scotland wool tartan and printed tartans gracing outerwear, tailoring, shirts, and dresses. The collection introduces military details such as frogging on jacquard knitwear and bustle skirts in organic cotton drill, marrying the traditional with the sustainable. A blend of Harris Tweed and box denim, along with earthy tailoring stripes and creatively torn knitwear, showcases Westwood’s commitment to innovation and sustainability. The inclusion of ‘toe’ shoes adds a touch of whimsy, emphasizing the collection’s wild, untamed spirit.
In a bold commentary on consumerism, the Rubbish print introduces camouflage patterns in cotton lawn, paired with fine lace knitwear, highlighting the brand’s environmental concerns. The collection also features the Felt Tip print on jersey and modern Graffiti artwork on standout pieces like the Cobrax corset and Double Waistband Foam skirt, further underscoring Westwood’s flair for combining historical elements with contemporary issues.
Collaborations breathe life into the collection, with all-over floral and graphic illustrations created in partnership with Revere the Residence, adding depth and diversity to the designs. The 90s Salon print, used on fluid jersey draped dresses and undergarments, is layered with dismantled metallic knitwear, satin tailoring, and velvet brocade corsetry, showcasing historical silhouettes in a subverted, modern light.
Photographer William Waterworth captured the Vivienne Westwood Autumn Winter 2024.25 lookbook featuring models Anna Cleveland, Arnaud Lemaire, Axel Gay, Emily Bennett, Jadi Wegener, Saul Symon, and Tass Sarr. in charge of styling was Kshitij Kankaria, with casting direction from Nachum Shonn. Beauty is work of hair stylist Blake Henderson, makeup artist Grace Sinnott, and manicurist Nadia Blanco.
this is beciming so commercial after Vivienne Westwood passed 😭