The Aelis Spring Summer 2025 couture collection is an exploration of creativity as a force that transcends time and materiality. Designed with a deep respect for nature and artistic expression, the collection reflects on the connection between the individual and the garments they wear. Sofia Crociani, founder and designer of Aelis, embraces couture as a living art form, one that evolves through craftsmanship, interpretation, and movement.
At the heart of this season’s narrative is the influence of Suzanne Tarasieve, a close friend and muse of Aelis, whose presence continues to inspire the maison’s vision. A piece dedicated to her is exhibited at the eponymous gallery, where Sofia was invited by her friend Eva Jospin. Here, the collection finds resonance with the idea that a handcrafted dress carries an emotional and symbolic weight. Through this, Aelis presents couture as an extension of the wearer’s essence, a dynamic expression that exists beyond fabric and form.
This collection continues Aelis’ collaboration with the Opéra de Paris and Christine Neumaster, further exploring the relationship between movement, volume, and space. Silk mousseline, as light as butterfly wings, creates fluidity within the garments, giving them a sense of airiness. A key piece in the collection is an ivory empire-style dress in tulle, embroidered at the hem with ears of wheat. Delicate black silk tulle bands support the structure, allowing the silhouette to move freely. Another defining look features a double-circle skirt in silk satin, with two flowing bands of black silk tulle that follow the natural rhythm of the body.
Lace plays a significant role this season, acting as both a narrative thread and a structural element. Sofia incorporates antique lace, crafted from silk thread and dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, repurposing it into contemporary forms. By integrating historical elements, the collection establishes a dialogue between past and future, tradition and reinvention.
This concept extends into the maison’s exploration of artificial intelligence as a tool for fashion design. While still in an experimental phase, Aelis introduces AI-generated garments as an ecological alternative to conventional material-based fashion. This approach is developed in collaboration with Jordan Tartlet and his AI team, focusing on the possibilities of hybrid design, where organic and digital elements interact. For Sofia, this experiment is an opportunity to bridge human craftsmanship with botanical influences, reinforcing a deeper connection between couture and nature.
The collection features intricate jewelry and embellishments, created in collaboration with Les Interessants. One of the most striking accessories is the “Eyeliner Jewel,” a metal jersey and crystal pearl piece that frames the face, subtly emphasizing the gaze. A pearl sautoir drapes vertically over a silk mousseline dress, originally a family heirloom gifted by Julie Doidy for the collection. Feathers and vintage jets shape a scarf that rests like a hawk on the shoulder of a sharply tailored men’s wool and silk jacket. The maison also introduces upcycled footwear, with Les Interessants reworking a pair of pumps reminiscent of 1980s punk.
Color is intentionally restrained in this collection, with a palette that revolves around shades of black and white. This contrast serves as a metaphor for individuality and nonconformity, allowing each garment to take on new meaning through the wearer’s interpretation. The absence of color also reinforces the maison’s broader message, fashion as a medium for reflection. By stripping away distractions, the collection focuses on form, craftsmanship, and the personalities who bring each piece to life.
In a time when divisions dominate, Aelis aims to express a message of unity and ecological consciousness. The maison will continue to develop these themes through a series of upcoming events, beginning in Istanbul, where Sofia will be hosted by the Italian embassy. Here, discussions will center on fashion’s role in promoting peace and environmental awareness.
The conversation will extend to Dubai, where the Museum of the Future will provide a platform for Sofia to explore the relationship between art, nature, and sustainable fashion. Through these engagements, Aelis reinforces its belief in fashion as an evolving dialogue, one that embraces history, innovation, and the beauty of the natural world.
