Rochas Pre-Fall 2025 collection, designed by Alessandro Vigilante, is a heartfelt homage to Hélène Rochas, a woman whose life was as multifaceted as her legacy. From her discovery as a young beauty in the Paris Métro to becoming the first female CEO in France, Hélène was a model, mother, art collector, businesswoman, and muse. Her evolving roles and impeccable taste have inspired Vigilante to create a collection that channels her essence, a sophisticated femininity that is both strong and unapologetically personal.
Vigilante delved deeply into Hélène’s life, drawing from surrealist portraits by Leonor Fini, Andy Warhol’s iconic 1974 depiction, and intimate photographs of her in Paris and New York. The collection reflects Hélène’s enduring impact on fashion, combining classic elements with innovative techniques to honor her legacy.
The collection’s silhouettes are sculpted with care, featuring rounded volumes and airy fabrics that evoke movement and grace. Each piece carries echoes of Hélène’s life, from stretch brocade adorned with whimsical flowers to jacquard tweeds reshaped into bold leopard patterns. Shimmering bouclés, a textured fabric made with looped yarn, are paired with sequins, and ethereal cerulean silk chiffon features soft polka dots that create delicate contrasts against the skin.
Lingerie-inspired designs pay tribute to Marcel Rochas’ iconic guêpière, a corset-like garment designed to shape and enhance the waist. Intricate rebrodé lace, lace enhanced with additional embroidery for raised patterns, transforming fluid trousers and slip dresses into wearable art. Antique lace details add softness to blouses, bows, and hemlines, peeking through more structured outerwear for an interplay of delicacy and strength.
Men’s tailoring influences are woven into the collection with a distinctly feminine touch. Lightweight wool in mirage grey with pinstripes becomes suiting paired with flowing chemises or dramatic tops featuring oversized bows. Black and white chevron transforms into a trompe-l’œil effect, an illusionary print that mimics texture, on moiré cotton trench coats, while a fiery red wool peacoat embraces boldness with its vibrant hue, a nod to Hélène’s belief in the invigorating power of color.
The color palette reflects both vibrancy and restraint, featuring shades like scarlet, rose, deep purple, and slate grey, balanced by porcelain white and powdery cerulean. White flowers, which Hélène famously adored for their purity and scent, inspired simple knit mohair tops with blooming cuffs, adding a subtle yet meaningful touch.
Photo: Max Hoell
Styling: Rae Boxer
Models: Gisele Norman & Noémi Kassa
