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Lost Love: John Richmond Returns to London Fashion Week

John Richmond’s Lost Love collection redefines modern gothic style with dramatic silhouettes and raw punk elements.

February 25, 2025
in Fall Winter 2025.26 Menswear, Fall Winter 2025.26 Womenswear, John Richmond, London Fashion Week, Lookbooks
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Lost Love: John Richmond Returns to London Fashion Week
Photo © Jamie Morgan

John Richmond is making a powerful return to London, reconnecting with the city where his brand first emerged from the underground pulse of 1980s punk and club culture. After spending years in Italy shaping global fashion, the British designer is stepping back onto familiar ground with a collection that embraces rebellion, luxury, and a fearless attitude.

Richmond has always been known for pushing against the mainstream, and his latest work is no exception. Set to debut in an exclusive London event, the collection will be unveiled at Tate Modern, a venue that reflects the designer’s deep connection to cultural movements. More than a return, this marks a shift in Richmond’s vision, where past influences meet a renewed sense of experimentation.

Photo © Jamie Morgan

John Richmond aesthetic has long been defined by an unapologetic fusion of streetwear, rock influences, and high fashion. His latest collection stays true to that ethos, channeling the raw intensity of British subcultures while reworking elements of classic tailoring. The designs reflect a modern gothic movement: dark, dramatic, and unrestrained.

Titled Lost Love, the collection plays with volume and deconstruction, layering over-the-top embellishments with raw, unfinished edges. Oversized fur-lined coats, jacquard bombers, and bleached denim pieces redefine proportions, while silk dresses are adorned with overlaid punk graphics. Satin-lapel dinner jackets contrast with structured, elongated cashmere coats, creating a clash of elegance and rebellion.

Lost Love: John Richmond Returns to London Fashion Week
Photo © Jamie Morgan

The garments are filled with subcultural references, studs, pins, and distressed textures are incorporated throughout, giving each piece a worn-in, lived-in feel. Tattoo-like jacquards mimic skeletal forms, and DIY leather cut-offs reinforce the collection’s anti-establishment roots. Meanwhile, Savile Row wool suiting is reinterpreted with lurex stripes, offering a sharp contrast to the collection’s rougher elements.

Silhouettes are exaggerated, with oversized jackets juxtaposed against sculptural skirts and trousers. Layers are carefully constructed to play with proportion, chunky mohair knits, structured kilts, and bondage-inspired details create an aesthetic that refuses to conform.

Photo © Jamie Morgan

Trousers and skirts feature unexpected pleating, nodding to Richmond’s history of subverting traditional tailoring. Denim is manipulated into asymmetrical shapes, reinforcing a sense of unpredictability. Richmond’s signature ability to balance structured elegance with raw street influences is evident throughout, making the collection a direct response to fashion’s cyclical nature.

The collection’s palette remains predominantly dark, with black serving as its foundation. Deep reds, saturated turquoise, and muted neutrals punctuate the designs, giving contrast to the monochromatic base. Accessories and detailing play into the gothic narrative, furthering Richmond’s embrace of the darker side of fashion.

Lost Love: John Richmond Returns to London Fashion Week
Photo © Jamie Morgan

This return to London isn’t just a milestone for John Richmond, it signals a renewed conversation around the influence of British fashion on global style. By bringing his work back to its origins, the designer bridges past and present, reinforcing his reputation for crafting pieces that feel both nostalgic and forward-thinking.

Shot by legendary photographer Jamie Morgan, the campaign captures the essence of Richmond’s vision, portraying the collection not as a revival, but as a continuation of his artistic ethos. There is a deliberate effort to create something that feels both cinematic and raw, pieces that live within the chaos of the city rather than existing solely on the runway.

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