Milan Fashion Week witnessed a deeply haunting and innovative presentation from Avavav with their FW25 collection, aptly named “The Hole.” In a dramatic display that transcended traditional runway shows, models emerged from a grave-like hole in the ground, clawing their way onto a runway covered in fresh grass. This striking entrance served as a powerful visual metaphor for the collection’s themes of death anxiety and the fragility of life, setting the stage for a fashion event that was as provocative as it was reflective.
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The collection itself was a mix of feminine tailoring and goth-inspired streetwear, crafted under the guidance of Creative Director Beate Skonare Karlsson. The garments, adorned with soil and blood, added a visceral element to the show, with models portraying exhaustion and a haunting sense of surrender. This presentation was deeply personal for Karlsson, who has recently faced health challenges that prompted a reflection on vulnerability and the human body’s limits. “Rather than letting this fear consume me, I chose to channel it into this collection,” Karlsson shared, highlighting the therapeutic nature of her creative process.
Avavav’s “The Hole” explored the tension between control and surrender through fashion. The designs featured ribcage cutouts, flowy skirts, and fur pieces with skeletal patterns, creating eerie, zombie-esque silhouettes that walked the clouded, smoke-filled runway. Details like distorted anatomical illusions, dramatic bow ties, and ladylike bouclé blazers intensified the show’s chilling atmosphere, while pleated oversized denims and microscopic tees echoed the grandeur of gothic architecture.
In a striking display of contrast, the delicate textures of georgette, wool, and satin were juxtaposed with armor-like silhouettes and protective gear. The sportswear influence was evident in broad-shouldered garments reminiscent of American football players, infusing the models with a battle-ready demeanor that complemented the collection’s ethereal undertones. This season also marked Avavav’s continued collaboration with adidas Originals, featuring groundbreaking footwear designs like the Moonrubber Megaride and a reimagined Superstar with a sculpted, anatomically inspired sole. Avavav partnered with Swedish jewelry brand Glitter, enhancing the collection with shimmering embellishments and oversized bows that underscored the theme of hyper-femininity.
With “The Hole,” Avavav not only pushed the boundaries of fashion presentation but also articulated a narrative about strength found in vulnerability. This collection by Karlsson, known for her avant-garde approach to streetwear, reaffirms Avavav’s position as a leader in innovative fashion.
