Duran Lantink unleashed Duranimal, a 53-look spectacle at Paris Fashion Week, pushing his experimental approach further while refining his signature aesthetic. Animal prints took center stage, zebra pony hair jackets, reworked snakeskin, and repurposed cowskin sourced from LVMH deadstock suppliers clashed with camouflage and plaid, creating a chaotic yet deliberate mix. Models, some body-painted in zebra and leopard patterns, reinforced the primal energy that pulsed through the collection. Lantink embraced this fearless aesthetic, stating, “I can handle ‘bad taste’ too.”
In a first-time collaboration with Sergio Rossi, the Italian footwear brand crafted custom runway shoes, extending the animal print motif to every element of the show. While Lantink has previously leaned into exaggerated, voluminous silhouettes, this season saw a shift toward tapered cuts, exploring the idea of shape as a defining style rather than relying on oversized proportions. However, drama remained intact, particularly in two hand-knit merino wool dresses, their interlocking forms crafted by a team of Dutch artisans. This craftsmanship coincides with Lantink’s status as a finalist for the Woolmark Prize, adding another layer of significance to the intricate knitwear.
For the first time, Lantink partnered with Bureau Betak, staging his show inside the soon-to-be new offices of the renowned Paris-based production company. The unconventional setting aligned with the designer’s love for unexpected contrasts, integrating the workspace into the show’s concept. Office cubicles framed the runway, blurring the lines between daily life and high fashion.
Sound artist Frederic Sanchez introduced another dimension with a partially improvised a cappella performance by Parisian choristers. Inspired by an avant-garde 1970s sound piece, the singers, wearing Converse, performed from their desks as models walked past. Their voices lingered even after the show ended, creating an intentionally ambiguous finale. “It’s really great to work with Frederic because he gives you that deeper layer,” Lantink said. “When we discussed the idea of bringing opera singers into the office, I thought it aligned perfectly with my collection of odd combinations.”
Hints of Americana surfaced throughout the collection, woven into Duranimal varsity jackets, denim ‘bareback’ jeans, and accessories blending Wild West influences with futuristic elements. The headwear, crafted with this theme in mind, added another twist to the collection’s already unpredictable narrative.
The opening and closing looks made the strongest statement, models appeared as action figures, complete with prosthetic body parts. “I love the idea of women as action figures,” Lantink said. “I think everyone should feel empowered to create their own identity and not feel restricted by anything.”
