Viktor&Rolf take a fresh approach for Fall Winter 2025, translating their conceptual design language into pieces made for daily life. Known for their avant-garde couture, the duo infuse ready-to-wear with sculptural details, expert tailoring, and unexpected contrasts. This shift embraces movement, crafting clothes that adapt to work, social settings, and everything in between.
The collection draws from the Fall Winter 2024 Haute Couture show, “Haute Abstraction,“ using deconstruction and layering to reimagine classic silhouettes. Sharp tailoring appears alongside relaxed fabrics, creating a wardrobe that balances structure with fluidity. Denim enters the mix for the first time, while a collaboration with Mackintosh introduces refined outerwear. By incorporating intricate elements like tulle ruffles and sculpted bows, Viktor&Rolf ensure that couture craftsmanship remains central, even in everyday pieces.
Viktor&Rolf approach ready-to-wear with the same precision they bring to couture. Dramatic shapes from their past collections find a new home in pieces designed for daily wear. The exaggerated volumes seen in previous couture shows translate into tailored balloon trousers, available in Japanese tuxedo wool and denim, offering both structure and ease.
The brand’s signature layering and duplication techniques, first seen in Spring Summer 2002’s “White” collection and Fall Winter 2003’s “One Woman Show,” add depth to staple items. Ruffled white collars introduce sculptural elements, while draped bows integrate into tops, dresses, and skirts. Viktor&Rolf create a wardrobe that maintains their avant-garde edge while ensuring versatility.
The color palette moves through black, grey, and dark berry, punctuated by accents of white, mint, and sky-blue denim. A standout beige shade, “golden fawn,” brings warmth to gabardine daywear, reinforcing the collection’s focus on sophisticated wardrobe staples.
Fabrics enhance both structure and fluidity, with a mix of Italian silk satin, Japanese cotton gabardine, silk-viscose floral jacquard, and mohair knits. Outerwear features Italian virgin wool felt and superfine alpaca, while organic cotton denim introduces a more relaxed sensibility. Each textile choice reflects Viktor&Rolf’s ability to elevate familiar pieces through expert craftsmanship.
Outerwear receives a fresh perspective through Viktor&Rolf’s collaboration with Mackintosh, a brand known for technical precision. This partnership results in pieces like a cropped belted jacket, reworking traditional craftsmanship into a modern silhouette. The collaboration expands the brand’s approach to functional fashion, reinforcing the collection’s adaptability.
Photographer Alessandro Furchino Capria captures the collection against the backdrop of Paris, using his deadpan aesthetic to highlight the pieces’ movement and structure. The setting emphasizes how these designs exist beyond the runway, navigating city streets and everyday life. This visual approach reinforces Viktor&Rolf’s message: thoughtful fashion can redefine daily dressing.
Viktor&Rolf continue to challenge expectations, proving that avant-garde fashion doesn’t belong solely on the runway. By reworking couture elements into functional designs, they create a collection that moves through different settings.
