Madrid, the graceful beauty among Europe’s metropolises, captivates visitors with its understated elegance and incredibly diverse cultural scene. Countless visitors to this city report on the very special magic of the Spanish capital. The history and architectural beauty of this city, with its tall buildings that capture and reflect the sunlight, and the number of prestigious museums, such as the Museo del Prado, Museo Reina Sofia and Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, remain particularly memorable. Carolina Herrera has chosen a particularly impressive and well-known location not far from Puerta del Sol and Plaza de la Villa, right on Calle Mayor, as the venue for the presentation of its Spring/Summer 2026 line: Plaza Mayor. This rectangular place, which is 129 metres long and 94 metres wide, is surrounded by four-storey residential buildings. In the centre of the square stands the equestrian statue of Philipp III., while beneath the arcades there are numerous bars and restaurants, making it one of the most popular destinations for many people in Madrid.
For the label, choosing Madrid as the location marked the third show abroad in the fashion house’s 44-year history. The city provided inspiration from the Golden Age of the 17th century, which was blended with the spirit of the La Movida movement of the 1980s, precisely the period when the fashion house was founded. An energetic mix of 80s music was selected as the soundtrack to accompany this, such as Jeanette’s “Porque te vas”. It was also a particular pleasure to see some well-known Spanish models on the catwalk, such as Esther Cañadas and Marina Pérez. A ball gown several metres long in timeless, luxurious black was the first look of the show. What a magnificent kick-off!
“Madrid has always been one of my favourite cities in the world – rich in history, art and culture,” declared Wes Gordon, Carolina Herrera’s Creative Director. “It’s home to incredible creatives with a unique approach to beauty and joy. There’s something about this city’s rhythm – it’s appetite for life – that inspires and energizes me, and it’s deeply aligned with the Herrera woman.“
The colour palette of this collection is electrifying and energetic: it skilfully plays with the contrast between boldness and romance. Different moods collide here: from sun-denched saffron yellow to dramatic and expressive Rioja, and violet-purple, which undoubtedly reminds us of the violets that are so often featured in this line. Then there is light pink, which is a lively colour addition. Classic white is also a must, as is graphic black, and, of course, the label’s signature colour, red. At times, it seems as if they are tracing Goya’s heavenly tones and the chromatic world of Pedro Almodóvar’s cinema. Some looks, such as those in signal red, are plain coloured, which further enhances the effect.
Three different floral motifs form the centrepiece of the collection and a recurring theme: the carnation, which can represent different themes depending on its colour and appearance. We know them as symbols of friendship, love, solidarity and gratitude, but also as expressions of grief. It’s the symbolic flower of Madrid and is used as an expression of beauty. It appears in various threadworks and is used in different ways. Furthermore, violets are often used. Here, too, the meaning can be interpreted differently depending on the colour. We know it primarily as an expression of innocence and modesty, especially when it comes to the purple plants, but patience and loyalty are also often assosiated with it, especially the blue plants. They are considered a very popular flower in Madrid – and are used in beautiful, three-dimensional embroidery in this line. The third floral inspiration is the Retiro Rose, cultivated in Madrid’s famous Rosaleda city park. Depending on their colour, roses can have many meanings: red roses, as we all know, stand for love, white roses for loyalty pink roses for gratitude and yellow roses for joy and happiness. It represents how the city transforms its invaluable heritage into an open, public space.
Carolina Herrera’s Spring/Summer 2026 line is inspired by women who embody both drama and modernity, such as Paloma Picasso and Cayetana Fitz-James Stuart, Duchess of Alba. Therefore, inspired by the powerful muses of this collection, the composition of textiles also combines both historical influences and contemporary designs. If you look closely at the cuts, you will find interesting interpretations of the architecture of Plaza Mayor: for example, the plaid tailoring and the cobblestones of the square are reminiscent of it. You will also find several interpretations based on the trellis motif in this range. A wonderful hommage to the city’s culture can also be found in the interpretation of traditional mantillas. Even the awnings of the square are reflected in the creations. These influences are mostly implemented with lace, which is very light yet structured. The entire range thus becomes a wonderful declaration of love for Madrid and its history, tradition and culture. Some looks with extra volume, ruffles and bows create eye-catching, glamorous highlights.
The great classics of the fashion house are reinterpreted with an eye for traditional Spanish style. Of course, this line also features polka dots, one of Carolina Herrera’s great classics. They are used in a variety of ways, from new silhouettes to extremely elegant tiered dresses, and sculpturally created daywear. Even several handbags feature this pattern. Traditional chulapa costumes are also presented here in a refreshingly modern way.
The eyewear also reflects the characteristics that define the Herrera woman: sharply cut silhouettes, graceful lines, and elegant finishes of the ready-to-wear, always with a touch of glamour. Once again, the individual signature style of the glasses is clearly recognisable: with their bold, oversized style and their round, metallic studs on the outer edge of the lenses, they remain true to their signature style. The medallion inside the tips contributes to an intellectual, classic overall impression. Furthermore, the models in this collection, which are primarily oversized and cat-eye shaped, feature a re-imagined Carolina Herrera logo in a square acetate detail. The creations in the lightweight Essential range provide colourful highlights, delighting the viewer with colorblocking into the elliptical temple. This makes a strong, lively statement that fits perfectly with the feminine and glamorous aura of the Herrera woman. The label’s Spring/Summer 2026 sunglasses line will be available from February 2026.
The opulent choice of accessories, with headbands and eye-catching necklaces and earrings, small, often sparkling handbags as well as the make-up with focus on red lips, reinforces the glamorous, dramatic overall character of this collection.
This Spring/Summer 2026 line can be seen as a declaration of love for Madrid, an iconic city that captivates with its history, tradition, architecture, culture, contrast and boldness, providing many magical moments – seen in this collection through the kaleidoscopic lense of Carolina Herrera.
Review by Sussan Zeck for D’SCENE Magazine
Images courtesy of © Carolina Herrera
