NOIR Kei Ninomiya presented his Spring Summer 2026 collection under the title Pure and playful. The concept turned childhood freedom of imagination into architectural design, treating garments as sculptural systems built from repeated modules and experimental materials.
A deep resonant sound introduced the show, followed by a poem by Aoyagi Natsumi evoking sea creatures and transformation. Against this atmosphere, garments appeared as living structures: lattices of star-shaped panels, wire frameworks orbiting the body, and clouds of tulle suspended like weightless auras.
Ninomiya constructed pieces through engineered connections. Grommeted mesh, synthetic leather, lace paillettes, and crystals linked into geometric arrays. Chain links and wire frames extended outward, forming halos that gave each silhouette a spatial presence. His use of modular repetition created garments that resembled architectural studies, yet moved fluidly with the body.
Tailoring grounded the collection. Sharply cut jackets and structured blazers contrasted with the sculptural systems, while harnesses and cage-like overlays secured expansive constructions to the body and connected experimental structures to wearable form.
Footwear underscored the dialogue between structure and play. In partnership with Jimmy Choo, Ninomiya introduced loafers and brothel creepers decorated with star-shaped chrome studs. These shoes echoed the modular geometry above while anchoring the collection with solid presence.
Headpieces by Shinji Konishi extended the sculptural vocabulary. Rendered in multiple colours, some showed fingerlike impressions, while others resembled architectural masses. They functioned as integrated components of the silhouettes rather than accessories, reinforcing the idea of garments as total structures. Makeup and hair mirrored this approach, treating the models as part of the architectural experiment.
With Pure and playful, NOIR Kei Ninomiya proposed a new balance between rigor and joy. He demonstrated how modular systems and sculptural logic can channel imagination, turning geometry into fashion that feels experimental and poetic.
