Berluti is finding its footing once again in the increasingly complex landscape of menswear, and the latest collection serves as compelling evidence that the 130-year-old Maison understands exactly where its strengths lie. Rather than chasing fleeting trends or attempting to reinvent itself wholesale, Berluti has doubled down on what it does best: leather goods and accessories executed with uncompromising savoir-faire. The result is a collection that feels both timely and timeless, speaking to a generation of men who value substance over spectacle.
The Boot as Hero
At the heart of this offering lies footwear, and specifically, boots that command attention without demanding it. The Rombo boot in Venezia calfskin emerges as the collection’s defining piece, a design that draws from classic biker aesthetics while maintaining the refined proportions one expects from a house of Berluti’s caliber. The mid-calf height strikes a careful balance, substantial enough to anchor a look without overwhelming it. Goodyear welt construction paired with a non-slip rubber pad speaks to a practical understanding of how men actually live in their shoes, not merely display them.
The reinterpreted Alessio Chelsea boot introduces EVA foam outsoles, a material choice that might raise eyebrows among purists but demonstrates Berluti’s willingness to embrace innovation where it genuinely serves the wearer. Lighter, more flexible, yet aesthetically uncompromised, this is the kind of thoughtful evolution that separates genuine progress from gimmickry.
Tailoring That Breathes
The menswear offering pivots on a compelling premise: elegance felt from within rather than imposed from without. The Forestière jacket, rendered in stretch cashmere and lined with polka-crest patterned silk, exemplifies this philosophy. It’s tailoring that acknowledges the modern man’s need for movement, for comfort, for clothes that work as hard as he does. The introduction of matching trousers for the Forestière, creating a fully coordinated suit option, represents a significant expansion that aficionados will appreciate.
Color plays a more adventurous role this season. The Vintage Pink cashmere Forestière paired with burgundy and brown trousers suggests a confidence in the Berluti customer’s willingness to experiment. The new Fiamma patina technique, melting three colors together to create hybrid tones with rich depths, pushes the house’s legendary leather finishing into genuinely new territory.
Leather Goods: The Collection’s True North
Where this collection truly excels is in its leather accessories, and here Berluti demonstrates why it remains a benchmark in the category. The 1 Jour de Plus briefcase represents a thoughtful rethinking of what a professional bag should be in an era when the boundaries between work and life have dissolved. Neither fully formal nor entirely casual, its architectural silhouette and adjustable side compartments speak to a design philosophy that prioritizes adaptability without sacrificing elegance.
The revamped F088 and the entirely new Fly line further this narrative. The Fly bags, crafted from featherweight Piuma calfskin and lined with ripstop nylon, a material originally developed for parachutes—embody a vision of luxury that moves with its owner. The oversized Scritto pattern in engineered rubber, moulded directly through the leather, adds both protection and a distinctive signature touch that feels unmistakably Berluti.
Finally, what emerges from this collection is a portrait of a house that has once again found clarity in its identity. Berluti isn’t trying to compete with streetwear-inflected luxury brands or chase the approval of a younger demographic at the expense of its core values. Instead, it’s speaking directly to men who understand that true elegance requires no announcement, that quality materials and expert craftsmanship communicate more powerfully than any logo or trend.
The focus on accessories proves strategically astute. In a menswear landscape where customers increasingly build wardrobes around exceptional individual pieces rather than head-to-toe looks, Berluti’s boots, bags, and leather goods offer entry points into the house’s universe that feel both accessible and aspirational.
Discover more of the collection in our gallery:
This is a collection for men who navigate their lives with intention, who appreciate the difference between a bag that merely carries their belongings and one that becomes a trusted companion. Berluti, it seems, knows exactly who it’s dressing. And that clarity of vision is perhaps the most elegant thing of all.
