Jun Takahashi presents the UNDERCOVER Fall Winter 2026.27 women’s collection through garments designed for daily use while carrying the brand’s distinctive design language. The collection focuses on premium materials and comfort while introducing distorted elements that have defined UNDERCOVER for decades.
FALL WINTER 2026
The design language draws directly from the Fall Winter 2004.05 collection titled “but beautiful…part parasitic, part stuffed.” Takahashi continues to treat the distorted visual vocabulary developed for that collection as a central design reference. Since last year, this language has remained a key axis guiding the evolution of the brand’s clothing. The new collection develops those ideas through garments that present subtle alterations in structure and proportion.
The collection centers on grounded daily clothing expressed through UNDERCOVER’s distinctive visual approach, avoiding heavy ornament and complex decoration. Takahashi maintains a clear focus on material quality while introducing forms that alter the expected structure of familiar garments.
Many garments feel extremely light, creating a sense that the pieces could remain part of the wearer’s routine throughout an entire day. A reversible tailored coat constructed from cashmere and silk moves with the softness of a cardigan. Another version introduces a soft crinoline structure at the waist.
An army-style anorak and a bomber jacket appear constructed from thin strands of silk chiffon. The delicate structure of the fabric gives the garments a floating quality that responds to movement and air. Padded silk jackets continue this direction, while large scarves carry painterly patterns that extend the visual vocabulary of the collection.
Takahashi continues to draw inspiration from the work of French plush artist Anne Valérie Dupond. The artist’s stuffed sculptures, which depict human figures, animals, and internal organs, have influenced Takahashi for many years. Her work served as a central reference for the 2004 “but beautiful” collection and remains an important source of creative direction within the brand.
Several pieces demonstrate this approach through subtle changes in familiar garments. A black leather jacket transforms into a cardigan-like hybrid through knitted edges and mismatched buttons along the front. A navy blue sweater introduces another alteration in proportion and texture. Takahashi attaches lingerie lace to the hem and adds a small pocket on the front of the garment.
A jacket decorated with floral embroidery gains a brown workwear collar and placket placed inside the garment. A black coat introduces a single satin lapel inspired by tuxedo tailoring. Takahashi constructs a collection intended for fashion followers who approach clothing with curiosity and humor.
