For Spring Summer 2027, Nigo brings KENZO back to Place des Victoires, the Paris square where Kenzo Takada opened his flagship boutique in 1976. At number 3 on the circular square, Takada built a place that welcomed Paris and the world into his vision. Fifty years later, Nigo uses that same location as a source of memory, direction and visual energy.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
The collection moves through meeting points. Sportswear meets romance, hard lines meet soft details, masculine codes meet feminine shapes, and past references meet new construction. His dialogue with the Kenzo archive continues through images of Kenzo Takada and references to 1970s figures such as Miles Davis. Pointed collars, layered silhouettes and dandy tailoring bring the era into the present. Ivy League ideas appear through varsity jackets, rugby shirts, collegiate ribbons and house insignia. Nigo also shifts familiar sportswear pieces into unexpected forms. A knitted rugby shirt becomes a floor length gown, and sequined varsity details move across jackets and footwear.
Romance enters through florals and ribbons. Nigo roots this part of the collection in the haberdashery shops around Place des Victoires and in Takada’s own ribbon collection. Jackets and skirts use custom ribbons from top to bottom, recalling the embroidered ribbon dress that closed the Kenzo Fall Winter 1982 show. Ribbon trims shape collars and cuffs. Bows fall across skirts. Sashes take their cue from ribbon construction. One dress uses multicolored knitted bands, hand sewn into a fluid arrangement of strips and stripes.
Bonsai motifs come from one of Takada’s poems and appear as prints and embroideries. These details express individuality with a direct, poetic tone. Floral patterns range from delicate archive recreations to blurred painterly motifs, giving the collection a sense of motion. Other prints focus on Place des Victoires itself, using an original 1976 illustration of Kenzo’s opening party.
Nigo works Japanese denim through tailoring and ribbon details. Velour denim, houndstooth, fil coupé florals and textured knitwear add surface and weight. Womenswear uses layered organza, flowing skirts and babydoll dresses, then sets them against sharper, boyish shapes. Menswear brings workwear ideas into the collection through practical forms and striped cummerbund details.
Accessories continue the return to Kenzo’s past. The Victoire bag revisits an archive postman shape in leather, canvas and embroidered versions. The Kite family grows through new color pairings. Printed pillow bags use archive illustrations, and Nigo brings silk scarves back as a key KENZO accessory.
The season also introduces new footwear collaborations. Converse works with KENZO on the Chuck 70 and low top Jack Purcell, using varsity codes, florals and the bonsai motif. Nigo partners with Paraboot for the first time, updating the Michael shoe with workwear inspired metal details and varsity lettering. The ballet line also expands through hybrid boot shapes finished with small bows.
