Kiko Kostadinov approached Spring Summer 2027 by returning to the minimal geometric forms of the previous season and testing how far they could move. The collection continues a new design language for the label, with cut and material taking priority over narrative. The studio avoids character building and imposed storylines, studying the act of making clothes before using structure to give each garment its force.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
The season takes a key cue from Agostino Bonalumi, the Italian artist known for monochromatic sculptural paintings. Bonalumi placed structural elements beneath canvas and used the term extroflexion to describe the tension between the surface and the invisible pressure pushing from below. His works often bulged, curved and undulated. Single fields of color allowed light and shadow to reveal the concealed construction.
Kostadinov translates that logic into clothing through structure instead of surface detail. The collection keeps topstitching and trims to a minimum. It removes visible zippers and prints. Fastenings sit behind plackets or match the fabric, allowing shape, texture and construction to control the visual rhythm. Styling follows the same direction, grouping looks through a tight palette of textiles, treatments and colors.
Internal boning sits beneath the surface of blazers, articulated jackets, trousers and raw edged patchwork T-shirts, creating curved protrusions and rippling volume. The label’s made in Japan suiting uses subtly padded blazers and trousers in silk wool, with dense stitching that forms deep seam like indentations. Polyurethane coated denim appears on structured jackets and shorts, recalling Bonalumi’s vinyl tempera treated canvases through material rather than direct image.
The silhouette grows slimmer, sharper and closer to the body this season. Long tunic like tops in draped jersey and silky nubuck add length, while oversized pyjama shirts with funnel necks soften the sharper cuts. Lightweight knitted tops with tie fastenings bring another controlled shift in proportion.
A recurring rhombus form runs through the collection and changes shape across garments. It informs the neck guards on slim wool coats and cropped blousons, extends the lapels of high neck blazers and shapes asymmetric fastenings on trousers with radiating hems. The show venue echoed this geometry through a wall of Saori lamps by Kazuhide Takahama, whose curved tensile forms carried the same interest in pressure, shape and light.
Rectangular crossbody bags use single pieces of folded leather. Rhombus brooches and belts with contrasting thicknesses add controlled accents, finished with burnished metallic buckles. A new Oakley collaboration updates the Terraforma model in colored acetate and introduces angular visor like concept pieces handmade at the brand’s California headquarters.
Footwear extends core Kiko Kostadinov shapes. The Sargo lace up returns as loafers and mid cut leather boots. New slip ons use rubberlike leather overlays to create ridged debossing across the heel and toe box, stressing the plasticity of the material. The brand also returns to its Crocs collaboration, now developed as a lighter summer model with a new lacing system and mixed material uppers.
