Anthony Vaccarello presented the Saint Laurent Men’s Fall Winter 2025 collection on January 28, unveiling a lineup that thrives on contrast. Drawing from Yves Saint Laurent’s haute couture archives and the provocative aesthetic of Robert Mapplethorpe, the collection operates on a tension between structure and fluidity, precision and excess. It is a study in duality, where traditional tailoring is subverted through unexpected material choices and unconventional styling.
FALL WINTER 2025.26 MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS
Tailoring remains at the core, but it is neither rigid nor predictable. Sharp double-breasted jackets, cut close to the body, offer a precise and disciplined silhouette, while feather-trimmed coats introduce an unexpected softness, shifting the mood entirely. Tapered trousers reinforce the controlled proportions, creating a streamlined effect that feels both powerful and restrained.
Outerwear dominates, with highly structured coats emphasizing strong shoulders and clean lines. The presence of voluminous silhouettes – particularly in oversized overcoats – adds a layer of drama, playing against the refined suiting. This balance between fitted and expansive shapes underscores the collection’s interplay between opposing forces.
Vaccarello experiments with texture to heighten the contrasts within the collection. Matte wool and cashmere coats stand in opposition to glossy leather, while silk shirting introduces a subtle fluidity beneath the weight of structured outerwear. Leather wader-like boots disrupt the expected codes of formalwear, injecting a bold, equestrian-inspired edge.
The use of feathers as trim on coats adds movement and an unexpected delicacy to otherwise assertive pieces. These elements shift the perception of classic menswear, reinforcing the idea that elegance and edge can coexist within the same framework.
Saint Laurent’s past serves as a foundation, with nods to Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche collections and his haute couture precision. However, the presence of Mapplethorpe’s influence adds a darker, more seductive energy. The tension between structured tailoring and provocative styling choices reflects the brand’s long-standing engagement with gender fluidity and sensuality.
This duality is evident in the way garments are styled. A perfectly tailored jacket may be paired with high leather boots, altering its identity entirely. The collection challenges traditional masculinity, suggesting that power and sensuality are not mutually exclusive.
The collection’s contrasts extend into the setting itself. Vaccarello staged the show at the Bourse de Commerce, a venue known for its modernist lines and industrial coolness. Inside, the weathered parquet flooring evoked the grandeur of historic salons, while massive crystal chandeliers nodded to the Intercontinental Hotel’s ballroom, where Saint Laurent’s haute couture presentations took place between 1975 and 2001.
The juxtaposition of stark modernity and old-world opulence mirrors the collection’s approach – where past and present, structure and excess, coexist within the same frame.
Saint Laurent Men’s Winter 2025 refines classic tailoring through contrast. Vaccarello’s approach retains the sharpness of traditional menswear while incorporating elements that challenge its rigidity. The tension between fitted and voluminous silhouettes, structured fabrics and soft embellishments, creates a collection that feels both familiar and subversive. Through this controlled interplay of opposites, Saint Laurent reaffirms its place at the intersection of elegance and provocation.
