IM MEN presented its Fall Winter 2026.27 collection, FORMLESS FORM, at the Collège des Bernardins in Paris. The setting, a 13th-century former school in the city’s 5th arrondissement, framed the collection within moments of transition. Dawn and dusk shaped the conceptual core, marking points when something begins and something ends. The collection asked a direct question: can the sensation that prompts a person to stand straighter, to act with intention, emerge from a single piece of cloth?
FORMLESS FORM begins by stepping away from fixed silhouettes. Instead of starting with predetermined shapes, IM MEN approached clothing as an extension of inner resolve. Fabric operates as a starting point rather than a surface. Through this method, the collection seeks a sense of “proper” presence defined by attitude and intention rather than rigid structure.
Several series articulate this approach through material innovation. CLAY introduces a singular textile that combines a flat surface with a rib-knit structure that contracts under heat. This dual behavior exists within one piece of cloth, producing sculptural forms that emerge during wear. The fabric stretches and conforms gently to the body, allowing comfort and movement while supporting shapes that shift between casual and formal use.
DAWN focuses on outerwear shaped by color and process. Artisanal dyeing techniques create gradual tonal shifts across each garment, evoking the sky during early morning and fading light. Each piece receives individual cutting and sewing to preserve the integrity of the three-color gradation. Front panels recall the layering of a large stole and cross at the body, allowing the garments to function like double-breasted coats with varied styling possibilities.
OVERLAP approaches versatility through construction. A chest flap and rain guard appear within a single piece of cloth. Sleeves gather at the cuffs and release to allow the coat to convert into a poncho-like form. Epaulettes lift the fabric to create alternate silhouettes. A cotton-nylon blend provides structure with comfort, while a wash finish deepens surface texture. The series includes relaxed, voluminous trousers that extend the same logic.
GRADATION WOOL uses a pouring dye technique applied to each roll of fabric individually, producing unique patterns and color variations. Cropped jackets and jumpsuits connect through side zippers, allowing the garments to function as a coordinated set. Wide-leg trousers feature a thick belt reminiscent of a cummerbund, introducing a composed formality through proportion and detail.
Outerwear continues with RAF T, a padded series quilted from matte textured fabric. Long coats and jackets use corded insulation made from recycled polyester, creating warmth through trapped air and sculptural volume.
KASURI draws from traditional weaving methods that rely on deliberate misalignment. Four types of yarn interact, including one dyed in three colors, producing linear patterns that reveal the human hand. Jackets and asymmetrical trousers form from a single rectangular cloth, allowing drape to define shape. Adjustable buttons enable the jacket to transform into a hood or stole.
FRONT BACK explores duality through fabric surfaces. Matte wool contrasts with satin on the reverse side. Continuous patterns from body to sleeve expose the satin at edges when folded. Sleeves detach to allow the garments to shift into long vests or draped forms.
SELVEDGE WOOL uses premium wool produced entirely in Bishu, Japan. The IM MEN name weaves into the selvedge, emphasizing flow and structure. LEATHER PLEATS and TO GO extend the collection into accessories, translating pleated forms and everyday objects into leather.
Across FORMLESS FORM, IM MEN Fall Winter 2026.27 collection treats clothing as a quiet articulation of intent, shaped through cloth and process.
