Leo Prothmann presented his Fall Winter 2026 collection Cabaña at The Mandrake Hotel’s Jurema Terrace during London Fashion Week. The all-genders collection draws from a week the designer spent in seclusion in San José del Pacífico, Mexico, where mist, damp air, and saturated earth tones informed both palette and construction.
FALL WINTER 2026
Prothmann centered the collection on warmth, though he framed it through interiors. He reflected on pigment embedded in wood and painted walls, on mud, mustard, oxblood, teal, and forest green shaped by weather and time. Long walks through shifting terrain led him to consider structure and collapse, and garments that hold form before softening with the body. That duality defines the season. Oversized, structured silhouettes fall into a deliberate slouch.
Shell forms, a signature in Prothmann’s practice, return in evolved form. He developed quilted leather parkas and modular outerwear designed for ritual and utility. Morning capes suggest first light and daily ceremony. The studio constructed these pieces from offcut leather strips and reinforced them internally with boning. Each strip sits equidistant from the next and requires careful hand application. Prothmann refers to these garments as cages, acknowledging their linear discipline and controlled spacing. They rank among the most technically demanding works the studio has produced.
Leather remains central to Prothmann’s vocabulary. For Cabaña, the studio partnered with Nene Valley Leather, a supplier known for upholstery hides engineered for daily use. The collection employs fully by-product leather that feels firm yet supple. Prothmann approached these materials with durability in mind, drawing parallels to furniture designed to inhabit a space for decades.
The damp terrain of San José del Pacífico sharpened the designer’s focus on protection, which extended into a collaboration with Dr. Martens. Together they reworked the Jadon boot into a hiking silhouette featuring cargo pockets, waterproof construction, and breathability.
Stylist Edda Gudmundsdottir shaped the collection’s proportions and color instinctively, guiding combinations so they feel worn and inhabited. Garments worn closest to the skin carry equal weight. In collaboration with Carmela Dias at London College of Fashion, the studio developed contour pieces and thermals that support the structured layers above. Cabaña also introduces Silverfin fish leather through a partnership with Inversa Leathers. The material derives from invasive species removed from fragile ecosystems. The process redirects ecological imbalance into material purpose within the collection.
Accessories expand the sculptural language. With Cubitts, the studio designed a limited-edition pair of resin sunglasses finished with Prothmann’s metalwork, extending curved forms into an everyday object. Jewelry by Ollivion draws from ancient artefacts and quiet mythology, reinforcing the collection’s tactile sensibility.
This presentation marks Leo Prothmann’s first inclusion on the official London Fashion Week schedule. On the terrace of The Mandrake, positioned between city and shelter, he introduces Cabaña as a study in leather, pigment, and form, an offering shaped by instinct, place, and the discipline of construction.
