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#BFW BRACHMANN Post-Classical Menswear for SS16


Berlin-based label “BRACHMANN Post- Classical Menswear” presented its SS16 collection as the kick off of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, as the first show. As location, the runway at Stage in Auguststrasse 68 in the heart of Berlin, was chosen. The collection is made for the cosmopolitan gentleman who prefers to dress high- class, albeit with innovative elements. Therefore its character was highly wearable, yet exclusive with just the right amount of each. It can be worn at any age and for any occassion. It does not scream for attention, though impresses with its very special detail- awareness.

Due to its vivid mix and match with fabrics and cuts, the classical menswear is lifted to another level. Or, to say it more precisely, it appears as post- classical menswear. Sharp, timeless, innovative. Absolutely alluring!

Influences from design principles of architecture are clearly visible in this collection and therefore it is constructed highly compelling. For the coming season, the german menswear label took its inspiration from Martin Eder’s cycle of pictures “Those Bloody Colours“. The artist attended the show. Classical menswear is paired with new structures which gives the collection its refreshing touch and makes the pieces stay in mind. Worth of mentioning is also its very special detail- awareness, for instance asymmetric cuts. But also outfits that give a different impression from the side and back deserve devotion.

The range of fabrics is dominated by natural garments which contribute to the feelgood factor of the wearer: linen, cotton, silk- cotton, merino wool are the preferred choice. They were produced by “Hausammann + Moos 1811”, based in Switzerland. A perfect addition for any summer wardrobe, as we learnt from various Southern cultures. It is a collection that is made for the modern gentleman that dares to vividly mix and match progressive pieces.

The colour palette is dominated by warm and earthy hues, for instance maroon, sienna, cordovan, dove grey and teal blue can be noticed in several of the collections’ pieces. It is a slightly more restrained colour choice, that always stays utterly wearable and timeless. Interesting is also Barchmanns’ colour combination which gives the looks its very special flair. Different tones are often paired in one outfit. Shoe- wise, it stays classy yet smooth. You may even call it practical, without getting boring. Brogues from “Gianni Galucci” were often combined with the looks.
Berlin-based label “BRACHMANN Post- Classical Menswear” presented its SS16 collection as the kick off of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, as the first show.

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Review by Sussan Zeck for D’SCENE Magazine .

For more of the label visit / All Photos by Rafael Poschmann

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