In 1877, Elsa Schiaparelli‘s uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli, the director of the Brera Observatory in Milan, made a groundbreaking discovery: a series of channels on the surface of Mars, comparable in size to the Grand Canyon. His work not only introduced the term “martian” but also ignited our enduring fascination with extraterrestrial life—a fascination that persists to this day.
This cosmic curiosity has been an underlying theme for the Maison of Schiaparelli, reflecting Elsa’s own fascination with astrology and the stars, a passion shared within her family. The latest collection pays homage to this obsession, masterfully weaving together the contrasts of legacy and the avant-garde, the beautiful and the provocative, the earthly and the celestial. It demonstrates how seemingly opposing elements can merge to form innovative and unexpected creations, much like art and nature often do.
The collection embodies one of the Maison’s core philosophies, championed by Elsa Schiaparelli herself: the union of unlikely pairings in design. It honors this tradition by blending old-world techniques—such as intricate guipure laces, velvet and lace appliqués, and hand-embroidered chenille fringe—with modern shapes, patterns, and references. A standout example is a dress resembling a motherboard-and-strasse microchip, adorned with pre-2007 technological artifacts, a nod to the now-antiquated technology that was once cutting-edge.
The collection also intertwines Elsa’s personal symbols with those of the current designer, Daniel Roseberry, drawing inspiration from his Texas roots. Elements like hand-painted paillette bandanas, reimagined cowboy boots as thigh-high fantasies adorned with buckles, and horse braid dressage knots transformed into silk satin spikes on a suede bomber jacket and a white denim corset suit. Schiaparelli’s iconic codes—the keyhole, the measuring tape, anatomical body parts—are subtly embedded throughout the collection as hidden treasures in jewelry, shoes, clutches, and embroidery.
Photography by © Macky Mann for DSCENE
