The Viktor & Rolf Spring Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection, titled “Scissorhands,” is a masterful exploration of contradiction and paradox, signature elements in the designers’ work. For this collection, Viktor & Rolf embraced the polar opposites of polished versus raw, studied versus improvised, and serious versus funny, presenting a series of all-black, signature silhouettes.
The collection comprises 28 outfits, showcased in 7 groups of 4. Each group begins with a flawless couture outfit, meticulously hand-finished as a blueprint, serving as the starting point for three subsequent iterations of the same design. These iterations explore the creative (im)possibilities of a pair of tailor’s scissors, used spontaneously for decorative cutting. The designs range from minuscule holes in a Rorschach motif to a ballgown hacked in half, creating a controlled chaos of holes and slashes.
Viktor & Rolf’s approach to this collection is to meticulously hand-finish each cut, slash, and hole, attempting to control the chaos inherent in their design process. This approach results in a paradox where the controlled polish of the finalized couture outfits contrasts sharply with the raw, experimental spontaneity of the scissor-cut designs. The first look of each group, appearing brand new and complete, actually serves as a starting point for something even newer, challenging the notion of what constitutes a finished piece.
“Everything is in constant flux,” the designers conclude, aligning with the motto of La Sorbonne university, the venue of the show: ‘Creators of futures since 1257’. This motto underscores the forward-thinking and innovative spirit of the collection.
The all-black collection features various couture staples such as velvet, sequins, and satin, both fluid and compact. The absence of color puts a resolute focus on the silhouette and the intricate cuttings that create slashes and holes in decorative patterns. These patterns allow for the body to show through in unexpected ways, adding an element of surprise and intrigue to each piece.
The looks are completed with black Falke stockings and Christian Louboutin heels in four different finishes, further emphasizing the collection’s focus on silhouette and detail.
