Nigo reshapes KENZO Fall Winter 2025 women’s collection with a mix of heritage, rebellion, and playful irreverence. Marking the brand’s first standalone womenswear show in eight years, the runway at 18 Rue Vivienne transported guests into a lively reinterpretation of the house’s legacy. Bunnies took center stage “Lucky Me,” a powder pink buck, and “Lucky You,” a baby blue doe, bounding across garments as screen prints, embroidered motifs, and even painted accents on bare skin.
The atmosphere balanced refinement with spontaneity. Models emerged from KENZO’s fourth-floor atelier, winding through the grand salons of the historic venue, while a soundtrack of 90s hip-hop, punk, and disco amplified the energy. Guests settled into furniture curated by Nigo, reinforcing the collection’s home-like setting. Even furry companions had a place, further underscoring the inclusive spirit of the show.
Nigo’s fascination with contrasting elements shaped the collection, drawing from his own archive of Savile Row tailoring while introducing softer, more fluid elements. Double-breasted grain de poudre tuxedo blazers featured velvet shawl lapels in relaxed boyfriend fits, while a kimono jacket with satin trim added a refined edge. Unexpected proportions emerged through cropped silk bomber jackets and a felted lime green duffle hoodie with frogged closures, evoking an impromptu sense of customization.
While the tailored pieces added structure, more effortless elements balanced the mix. Louche Japanese selvedge denim, softly pleated carrot pants, and billowing crepe trousers introduced fluidity, emphasizing movement and ease. Satin camisole slips peeked through layers, carrying a delicate lingerie influence that ran throughout the collection.
KENZO’s signature graphic storytelling remained at the heart of the collection. The mischievous bunny duo, inspired by a 1979 Kenzo Takada sketch, became a recurring motif, appearing on outerwear, knits, and even floppy-eared hooded jackets made from plush baby blue and pink fabrics. Floral prints, lifted from the brand’s archival swimwear, clashed with chessboard checks, while pastel gingham Harris tweeds paid homage to Nigo’s long-standing appreciation for English textiles. A deeper connection to KENZO’s atelier surfaced in a hand-embroidered cotton-linen snow parka, featuring the rainbow-colored signatures of the entire team. The personalization echoed vintage college leavers’ jackets, further strengthening the theme of community.
Nigo’s impact on streetwear culture filtered through in subtle yet deliberate ways. Crystal pavé belt buckles, engraved with the KENZO logo and Nigo’s name in katakana script, introduced a street-inspired edge. A collaboration with New Era brought forth a capsule of 59FIFTY fitted caps, embroidered with a graphic interpretation of the collection’s bunny motif, and a hidden hint at future projects.
Bags took on a singular shape, a bowling ball bag in satin, finished with tonal leather trims, shirred handles, and delicate ribbon details, reflecting the lingerie-inspired textures found throughout the collection. Footwear revived a silhouette from the KENZO archive, transforming slingback mule slippers into leather, satin, and studded denim variations, now reimagined with a quilted satin inner lining.
Nigo transformed KENZO’s historic home at 18 Rue Vivienne into a setting that honored tradition while embracing his own vision of contemporary luxury. The space, styled like an haute couture salon, reflected his deep appreciation for architecture and interior design. Carefully selected furniture pieces reinforced the collection’s refined yet personal energy, while Studio Cario Dario’s tablescapes invited guests to feel truly at home. With this collection, Nigo balanced structure and ease, heritage and rebellion, offering a wardrobe that moves fluidly between elegance and playfulness. As the show wrapped, glasses clinked in a toast, to Lucky Me, Lucky You, and Lucky Us.
