Susan Fang Fall Winter 2025 collection, Air Memory, goes beyond fashion, serving as both a tribute and a deeply personal artistic expression. Dedicated to her mother, Ai Lan, the collection reflects the warmth of maternal love, cultural heritage, and the shared creative journey between mother and daughter. With the support of Dolce&Gabbana, Fang’s latest work made its debut at Milan Fashion Week, carrying forward her signature ethereal aesthetics while weaving in new techniques and inspirations.
Fang’s mother, who only took up painting in her 50s, plays a central role in this collection. Her artwork, deeply inspired by the natural world, has been reimagined into textiles through intricate embroidery, sequins, and beadwork. Her vibrant depictions of flowers, birds, and celestial scenes, many of which recall the stories passed down by her grandmother, have been transformed into pieces that blur the line between clothing and art. One standout design is a long jacket that features her mother’s direct painting of her hometown, creating a garment that carries both memory and emotion.
The collection also delves into the fragility and resilience of memory. Puffer jackets reinterpret the fractured elegance of Song Dynasty ceramics through soft, muted hues and laser-cut floral elements, evoking the way recollections are pieced together over time. Fang extends this theme into movement, crafting folded rainbow dresses with interwoven strips of color that shift and flow, mirroring the unseen energy of love and nostalgia. These designs embrace both the ephemeral and the lasting, much like the emotions and experiences they represent.
Beyond personal storytelling, Air Memory incorporates a community-driven element. Collaborating with mothers from the Zhuang minority in Guangxi, Fang integrates handcrafted Bubble Dandelions into skirts, dresses, and accessories. These delicate floral forms, created through a charity initiative, symbolize strength, renewal, and healing, qualities tied to maternal devotion and the enduring power of nature. The collection further explores the balance between traditional craftsmanship and modern innovation through two dresses designed with Fang’s husband, Orelio De Jonghe. Using 3D-printed structures, these garments allow the Bubble Dandelions to take organic form, blending handcraft techniques with cutting-edge technology.
Accessories carry forward the collection’s themes, drawing from Chinese ceramics, jade, and imperial jewelry. Flower-shaped sunglasses, intricate handbags, and hair embellishments reflect Fang’s ongoing dialogue between past and present. Digital tools also play a role, as De Jonghe’s 3D-printed corsets, balaclavas, and handbags take inspiration from the precision of nature’s organic systems, resulting in layered floral structures that push the boundaries of contemporary design.
Fang describes Air Memory as an exploration of human connection, cultural artistry, and shared experiences. Raised between multiple countries, she embraces both the misunderstandings and the unity found in different traditions, channeling these contrasts into her work. Through this collection, she hopes to honor her mother’s artistic journey, celebrate the bonds that tie generations together, and highlight the beauty of collaboration.
