Moschino presents Men’s Fall Winter 2026 and Women’s Pre-Fall 2026 Collezione 07: I Complici, revisiting a defining idea from the house’s past through a contemporary lens. The point of departure sits in 1988, when Franco Moschino gathered friends and collaborators into a loose collective he called his accomplices. That group shared a belief that character matters more than conventional ideas of beauty. Creative Director Adrian Appiolaza returns to that framework, using it as a living structure rather than a reference exercise, and reworks it for today.
Appiolaza strips historical codes of their expected intensity and repositions them through restraint and irony. The characters that emerge resemble future-facing paninari, filtered through black, military cues, saturated color, denim, and leather. These looks reject hierarchy and exclusion. Each figure operates as part of a club defined by individuality.
A little black dress tightens at the waist with a tailor’s measuring tape that ties into a bow. Eveningwear glitters with gold sequins that reveal themselves as printed surfaces only through touch. Shirts turn into patchworks of labels, tracing the evolution of the Moschino logo across time.
A key presence within this context comes through Cinzia Ruggeri. Active from the 1960s through the 1980s, Ruggeri shaped Italian fashion while questioning its foundations. She dismantled standard design logic, transforming ordinary objects into unsettling accessories and building an ironic visual language. Her approach resonates closely with Franco Moschino’s thinking, and her influence surfaces here as a shared attitude.
That sharp irony becomes explicit in the accessories. A handbag shaped like a roll of toilet paper accompanies a sharply tailored black suit. Collectible clutches appear as a corn cob or a dolphin, shifting scale and expectation. The Tie Me bag evolves into a magnetic-closure clutch offered in two sizes and three materials. One version appears as a soft white cloud. Another wraps fully in yellow tailor’s measuring tape. A third takes the form of a puzzle, assembled from laser-cut leather pieces that create a vivid mosaic.
The men’s collection leans into sensuality tempered by innocent play. A trench coat features printed raindrops, suggesting a London caught in permanent drizzle. Zebra print meets polka dots without explanation. A young twink wears a reflective T-shirt marked with quotation signs, framing a silent message left open to interpretation.
Error takes on meaning across the collection. Imperfection gains value through inversion and misalignment. The yellow puffer jacket with the historic Smiley appears flipped upside down, transforming a familiar symbol into a question.
Freedom connects all of Appiolaza’s accomplices for 2026. Dressed in Franco Moschino’s historic brick print, they carry a small house that functions as a bag and an oversized scarf bearing the phrase that unites the cast. The message centers on the will to exist, to express oneself, and to live freely, positioning character as the collection’s defining force.
