Patrick McDowell unveiled his Fall Winter 2026 collection, The Gaze, at London Fashion Week. At a time when fashion reassesses intimacy, responsibility, and meaning, McDowell advanced his vision of modern luxury through design-led storytelling. He grounded the collection in integrity and focused on figures who shape his creative thinking.
FALL WINTER 2026
The work of American photographer George Platt Lynes guides the season. Lynes’ sculptural and intimate studies, including his photographs of ballet dancers, inform the collection’s approach to proportion and silhouette. McDowell translates that reference into elongated lines, softly structured tailoring, fluid shapes that respond to the body, and delicate florals.
“George Platt Lynes’ understanding of form, proportion and elegance was the main reference for this collection, informing both the silhouettes of the looks and the craftsmanship behind them,” said McDowell.
McDowell collaborates closely with skilled makers to reinterpret traditional techniques through a circular design lens. Responsible sourcing shapes material choices, and refined construction defines the finish. Reimagined fabrics and intricate embroideries introduce texture and character across the collection. The designer also collaborated with milliner Philip Treacy to incorporate headwear into the runway presentation.
Every garment carries a Digital Product Passport that records its provenance, makers, and development. Through a partnership with Certilogo, each product connects to a secure digital identity that enables authentication and extends the relationship between brand and client. This system supports repair, refitting, redesign, and broader circular services.
For FW26, he partnered with Penhaligon’s and selected Juniper Sling to reflect the atmosphere of George Platt Lynes and his subjects. Models carried limited-edition perfume bags crafted from reclaimed materials, integrating scent into the runway narrative.
The show took place at Rambert, marking a return to a venue that holds personal meaning for McDowell. Dance informs his practice, and he previously presented work at Rambert in 2023. The choice of venue aligns with Lynes’ iconic photographs of ballet dancers and reinforces the collection’s focus on movement and form. Rambert celebrates its centenary this year and launches the FUTURE100 Campaign to fund its next century.
“Dance has always held a very special place in my heart,” says McDowell. “To present this collection at Rambert is especially meaningful. I have always believed that both dance and beautiful clothes are forms of storytelling, bringing together movement, beauty and imagination in ways that inspire us and foster a sense of connection.”
Danilo Giangreco, Artistic Ambassador for Revlon Professional UK and Ireland, styled hair for the show, with Revlon Professional shaping the overall aesthetic. MAC Cosmetic supported makeup under Key Artist Carly Utting. Blooming Haus transformed the performance space with floral installations. Casadei and Sebago supplied shoes, and Rouvenat provided jewellery. TIAGI Production managed show production. Harry Price directed movement, drawing on classical ballet and contemporary dance to shape expressive performance on the runway.
