The Mame Kurogouchi Fall Winter 2024 collection embarks on a journey to Saga Prefecture, a pivotal location in Japanese ceramic history. This season, the designer delves into the essence of ‘Old Karatsu,’ a style that thrived in the latter part of the 16th century, and incorporates numerous ceramic fragments, tracing the pursuit of beauty over centuries. Through a natural color palette, rich textures, minimal silhouettes, and distinctive pattern expressions reminiscent of Kokaratsu, Kurogouchi transforms these elements into what she terms ‘wearable ceramics.’
The predominant shades of grey throughout the collection evoke a sense of traversing through the echoes of past creations. Before the advent of domestic porcelain, the grey-brown earth hues crafted in the Karatsu region, with remnants of lost creations, reflect the land’s unique color and history. The transition of shades from warm grey to beige symbolizes a yearning for the Saga Earth, while hues of orange and terracotta evoke memories of the kiln’s flame, infusing warmth into the collection.
Drawing inspiration from Ekaratsu, where potters depicted daily landscapes and flowers, Kurogouchi integrates cord-embroidered botanical motifs boldly across dresses, shirts, and sheer vests. Jacquard patterns and chunky knits incorporate elements of Karatsu painting, quietly yet powerfully blooming on various pieces. Techniques such as hand-pouring dye and unique fabric treatments, including applying mochi-rice and kintsugi-inspired detailing, enrich the collection’s textures and narrative, reflecting the intricate beauty of ceramic grains.
The collection’s modern interpretation resonates with the serene rusticity of ceramic fragments, exemplified by down jackets with kimono-esque collars, padded scarves with botanical embroidery, and flowing woolen coats. Through meticulous craftsmanship and a nod to Karatsu’s diverse styles such as Madara, Korean, and Mishima, Kurogouchi presents a sartorial homage to the hidden beauty and tranquility of ceramic artistry, making a narrative that bridges past and present, tradition and innovation.
Explore the collection in the Galery below:
