Fashion house Ujoh presented the Fall Winter 2026 collection titled Antithesis on March 10 during the final day of Paris Fashion Week. Backstage at the show, photographer Sohom Das captured the behind-the-scenes atmosphere and a closer look at the clothes exclusively for DSCENE Magazine.
BACKSTAGE
The collection develops through a process of examination and questioning. The word “Antithesis” expresses that direction. The term signals inquiry instead of rupture. Ujoh examines its own design language, including shapes, construction methods, and visual codes. The house revisits these elements through revision and reconsideration.
Garments introduce sharper silhouettes together with relaxed volumes. The collection reduces elements to direct forms that emphasize structure and proportion. Minimal surfaces gain tension through references drawn from 1990s grunge culture and rock imagery. These references bring raw character to the collection’s otherwise restrained compositions.
Materials guide the development of the garments. Ujoh relies on textile research and traditional production techniques. Selected fabrics originate from a 1960s Schöherr loom in Japan. The machine operates five times slower than contemporary weaving equipment. This slower method produces fabrics with distinctive surface qualities. The textiles include technical nylons and transparent materials that reveal layers and structural details.
The collection combines fabrics through unexpected arrangements. An aviator jacket incorporates faux suede and faux fur. Lace appears in garments where such material rarely appears in outerwear or tailoring. Metal zippers interrupt garment surfaces and introduce graphic lines that shape the structure of coats, jackets, and tops. These elements create rugged silhouettes with visible seams and sharp edges.
The color palette supports the tone of the collection. Ujoh builds the range around dark shades such as black, chocolate, and rosewood. Fern green and dark fig are introduced within this darker structure. White and beige tones appear through sharkskin references that introduce brightness into the palette. Check patterns reference grunge clothing and reinforce the visual language of the garments.
The runway presentation also challenged conventional show order. Ujoh abandoned a fixed sequence of looks. Garments entered the runway in a free arrangement that resembled a wardrobe selection. This structure encouraged viewers to approach the collection as a group of independent garments rather than a linear storyline.
Ujoh is so cute and so underrated, I love what they are doing. Great people and great collection.