TOGA ’s SS25 collection, titled “Labor, Order, Humor,” marked the brand’s return to the runway after a four-year hiatus. During that break, designer Yasuko Furuta chose to present TOGA’s collections through films and imagery, shifting the brand’s focus inward and reflecting on the purpose behind its designs. The return to the runway felt deeply considered, influenced by cinematic, artistic, and literary inspirations, notably Claire Denis‘s film Beau Travail (1999), Francis Alÿs‘s performance Paradox of Praxis (1999), and Clarice Lispector’s novel A Hora da Estrela (1977). These works provided a setting for the collection, shaping its ethos of exploring labor, beauty, and humor in the creation of clothing.
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The SS25 collection, framed by these inspirations, explored the intersection of effort and beauty, presenting clothes as labor-intensive art forms. Furuta aimed to build pieces that not only highlight the physical work behind their creation but also add layers of humor and narrative, challenging the conventional notions of fashion. The collection emphasized craftsmanship as an essential element of beauty, where each garment’s construction was as significant as its final appearance. This intricate approach echoed the themes of Furuta’s sources, underscoring the idea that process and effort are just as meaningful as the end result.
For TOGA’s return to the runway, Furuta chose a salon-style show, a deliberate decision meant to slow down the typically fast-paced fashion presentation. In this setting, the audience could intimately engage with the pieces, examining the fine details and structure without distraction. It was not about putting on a spectacle, but about drawing the audience closer to the labor behind each creation. The salon format offered a sense of intimacy, inviting viewers to consider the intricate work that went into each piece, highlighting the balance between order and creativity that Furuta so carefully cultivates.
The collection’s garments spoke to TOGA’s signature blend of avant-garde aesthetics and wearable designs, infused with Furuta’s conceptual underpinnings. Silhouettes were sharply tailored yet playful, with deconstructed elements that introduced a sense of fluidity. Humor was embedded in the unexpected details—off-kilter draping, exaggerated pockets, and whimsical prints—each piece inviting the viewer to reconsider the relationship between functionality and style. This subtle humor echoed the larger themes of labor and order, suggesting that even in serious craftsmanship, there’s room for levity and fresh perspectives.
Fabric choices were deliberate, playing into the collection’s exploration of landscape and body. Crisp cottons, structured wool, and airy silks created a juxtaposition of textures that echoed the contrasts between labor and beauty. The materials felt lived-in yet elevated, reinforcing the idea that clothing is both a product of effort and a canvas for artistic expression. Through TOGA SS25, Furuta explored the balance between structure and fluidity, challenging traditional notions of what constitutes fashion by emphasizing the laborious processes behind each design.
TOGA SS25 “Labor, Order, Humor” was a powerful statement on the role of effort in fashion design, celebrating the return to the runway not as a mere spectacle but as an introspective exploration of the craft. Furuta’s decision to focus on intimacy, artistry, and narrative resonated deeply, offering a refreshing take on contemporary fashion.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
