ICEBERG has reintroduced itself with its FW25 collection, “Energia e visione.” This season, the Italian fashion house has combined its heritage of knitwear with the structured precision of British tailoring and the artisanal touch of Irish sweater craft. The result is a dynamic and sporty dimension to everyday wear, moving fashion forward with innovative knit techniques and structured details that push traditional boundaries.
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Creative Director James Long‘s vision for ICEBERG this season is a heartfelt tribute to the art of knitting, melding beloved techniques and treatments with sartorial playfulness that oscillates between tradition and subversion. The collection features standout pieces like a ribbed grey sweater with a broad sailor collar paired with masculine-cut tailored trousers, clinched at the waist with a mock-croc belt. This interplay of soft tailoring and assertive knitwear forms a cornerstone of the collection’s aesthetic.
In a daring move, knit dresses with ribbed textures and open collars introduce a lowered waistline and a fluidly pleated skirt, layered over a poplin check miniskirt with ruffles, creating a delicate balance of layering and lightness. The collection’s tailoring finds harmony in softness and structure, with eco-leather finished collars adding character to a selection of garments, including a nearly translucent ruched tuxedo shirt and a double-breasted check suit worn under a raw-cut popeline coat.
The color palette cleverly plays with shades of blue, dusky pink, and mustard tweed, enriching the collection with a subtle yet impactful spectrum. Experimentation with knitwear, a hallmark of ICEBERG since its inception, features prominently in oversized navy-striped ribbed sweaters with wool panels on the shoulders that introduce a sporty contrast, while high collars lined with faux shearling underscore the combination of comfort and style.
Oversized check wool coats paired with faux leather give structure and edge, trimmed with detailed edges and paired with knee-length popeline skirts with airy, ruffled hemlines. The knitwear continues to challenge norms with enlarged check patterns on sweaters, featuring dropped stitches that evoke a posh yet punk London aesthetic, complemented by tweed check miniskirts and white cable-knit sweaters streaked with bold red stripes.
Concluding the show, ICEBERG unveiled two oversized cardigan-coats so vast they featured integrated scarves that brushed the floor, resembling bridal gowns in their sweep and drama. Footwear like mock-croc triple-buckle sandals with medium heels and minimalist flat boots, along with mock-croc belts and oversized faux leather coco-print bags, encapsulated the collection’s versatility from day to night.
