Denim Tears announces its newest project, titled 5th Quarter, launching July 4th both online and at the Africa Diaspora Goods store in New York. Tremaine Emory uses this collection to extend a conversation that stretches far beyond sportswear. At its center stands basketball, specifically, its place in the lives and identities of Black Americans. Rather than focusing on the height of performance, 5th Quarter looks at what comes next. It holds space for those who exit the game, by choice or by force, and considers how culture, identity, and history carry forward.
The title 5th Quarter immediately suggests an afterlife of the game, a time without a clock, a phase that doesn’t get televised. Emory turns to this frame to examine how basketball has long operated as both hope and pressure, offering a vision of success while demanding more than athletic ability. The collection draws inspiration from figures like Rafer “Skip 2 My Lou” Alston, whose streetball legacy shaped generations, and the late Georgetown coach John Thompson Jr., who carried his players beyond sport.
Denim Tears builds the season around familiar shapes, sweatpants, shorts, jerseys, pullovers, but introduces new symbols and stories. African Mudcloth appears across multiple pieces, carrying cultural weight into modern sportswear. Nylon pullovers reference classic warm-up gear but shift tone through updated color, fit, and print. The graphic tees act as narrative pieces. The “Skip My Lou” tee recalls names that don’t appear in official NBA histories but remain vital to the cultural script.
Accessories turn details into meaning. A Basketball Net Necklace, custom Rafer Alston basketball, and a new version of John Thompson Jr.’s towel each reflect Emory’s ongoing interest in translating memory into material. These objects do not exist for novelty. They bring physical presence to figures whose influence continues to shape how Black America sees the game and itself.
The styling remains accessible but pointed. Emory doesn’t rely on trend. Instead, he chooses weight, tone, and function to build continuity with past collections. The palette follows that approach. Black, white, muted reds, and Pan-African tones appear throughout, supporting the message without over-narrating it.
Price points span from $15 to $300. Entry-level pieces include socks, headbands, and caps. The mid-range covers sweatpants, pullovers, and graphic tees. High-end items include warm-up jackets, track pants, and detailed shirting. The collection moves across categories: jersey sets, accessories, casual athletic gear, and tailored tops, each holding a distinct function while supporting the whole.
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A pop-up at Dover Street Market Paris on June 28-29 offered an early preview of 5th Quarter. Now, the full launch prepares to arrive online and in person at the Africa Diaspora Goods space at 176 Spring St in New York. This physical location grounds the release, placing the work directly inside the community it references.
