Reduction takes center stage in Satoshi Kuwata’s FW25 collection for SETCHU, where each piece reflects a dialogue between Japanese tradition and Savile Row tailoring. The brand’s journey begins with a single sheet of origami paper, transforming it into garments that reimagine multifunctionality and adaptability. This season’s designs encourage wearers to engage intuitively with each piece.
At the core of SETCHU lies a philosophy of multifunctionality. Garments are designed to be worn in multiple ways, urging clients to experiment with their wardrobe according to their needs and instincts. Building on this ethos, SETCHU introduces an innovative updating service, allowing clients to tweak their existing pieces, further expanding their possibilities. Kuwata’s approach positions SETCHU as a bridge between East and West, where structured tailoring meets the fluidity of Japanese aesthetics.
The collection’s inspiration originates from the square, a simple shape with transformative potential. Folding a square vertically and horizontally creates smaller sections, dividing the surface with mountain and valley folds. These movements mirror the garment construction process. Safari jackets and coats can be shortened, shirts and blazers extend into square panels, and the tails of tailcoats tuck neatly away.
The minimalist palette of black, white, and grey underscores the collection’s essence, evoking a monochromatic nostalgia reminiscent of old newspapers and black-and-white television. A seasonal grey and black tartan adds texture and depth, while the inclusion of a colorful silk jacquard inspired by The Tale of Genji introduces a playful yet artistic element. This fabric, featuring homoerotic imagery and octopus motifs from Japanese manga, adds an unexpected layer to the collection’s narrative.
The show unfolds like a journey through the hours, progressing from morning to evening. Key moments are punctuated by bespoke pieces developed in collaboration with Davies & Sons, the oldest tailor shop on London’s Savile Row. Highlights include a crafted morning suit, a double-breasted blue blazer with gold buttons, and a tail jacket, all constructed with origami-inspired techniques that echo SETCHU’s design principles. This structured yet playful approach is complemented by fabrics that are dense and tactile, further improving the sense of considered craftsmanship. By narrowing traditional gender divides, the collection feels inclusive and forward-thinking, challenging conventional boundaries while embracing a cohesive vision.
The presentation extended beyond the runway to the first floor, where the inspirations behind the collection were displayed in tatami-lined cabinets. These nineteen cabinets showcased elements that define the SETCHU aesthetic, from a passion for fishing to the application of origami folding techniques in tailoring, gloves, and napkins. This immersive display offered a closer look at Kuwata’s creative process and his ability to harmonize diverse influences.
Creative direction: Carina Frey and Stefanie Barth
Stylist: Tanya Jones
Makeup: Thomas de Klyuwer
Hair: Soichi Inagaki
Choreographer: Michael John Harper
Music: Paolo Tocci
Film: Massimiliano Bomba
Photography: Patrick Bienert
Text: Angelo Flaccavento
PR: Nathalie Ours
Show production: Gainsbury and Whiting
Coordination: Leila Palermo
Special advisor: Fabrice Paineau
Boring sorry