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Collection: David Koma
Season: Autumn Winter 2012.13
Website: www.davidkoma.com
A mix of eras at David Koma for an impressive collection. Inspired by Thierry Poncelets portraits of dogs in aristocratic attire with the use of ruffles and ruched draping to accentuate the female figure by enhancing the hips and behind, as it was once in the Victorian eras. It's fair to say that the waist is lost this season with hips and bums in the spotlight. Structured, but simple silhouettes were kept with the sleek fitted shift dresses of the 60's combining furs and silks with the more modern and technological fabrics to add a sports twist and ever contemporary motion to the garments.

Shirts were embellished with distinctive high collars some covered in a blinding amount of sparkle. It's clear to see that e neck is another focal point for the body this winter and for dogs alike too. So, a collar won't go a miss this season. The shoes by Alain Quilici with feature heels were undeniable. The stiletto may have met its match with a more graphic opponent. It's not enough to walk on stilts anymore, but, on an entire monument. I fancy myself a bit of a trademark which is why I'll be first in line.

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Collection: Burberry Prorsum
Season: Autumn Winter 2012.13
Website: www.burberry.com
The turnout as always at Burberry was undeniable. Who would ever want to miss a show, or dare to and this was definitely not one to miss. It was the sequel to the last and just as good if not even better, if possible with even more visuals to feed the mind with. The inspiration seem to carry on from the previous season with similar ideas and shapes being revisited, from towns to fields looking at the energy and breadth of heritage available. The bomber jacket is back but this time finally cropped and tailored for a more elegant look where you're not just lost in the jacket but at one with it. Trench coats and field jackets were all equipped with a utility belt almost, of labelled bellow pockets and accompanied by a bow belt or ornamental detailed zip. Again the focal body parts were the hip and behind accentuated by the tiered peplum skirts, sculptural dresses and tiered cinched jackets. The British countryside was brought in through a new addition of the t-shirt with an owl print being the focal point.

Appliqué and embroidery were also something big we saw heavily featured this season, with brush stone embroidery highlighting the neck in place of a necklace. My most memorable pieces bar the outerwear were the blinding gold work studded leather cuff length gloves. They should come with a safety disclaimer : eye protection must be worn in order to operate gloves. Clear to see that jewelry is almost rendered useless when accessorizing with the integral pieces needed to survive any winter, in or out the countryside. Mixing colour with print and classic materials never goes a miss at Burberry, with plums, ambers and olives ever present alongside the camels of your traditional British tweed wool and corduroy.

If there's anything more to take away, it's definitely to dress for the field, but make sure youreready for the town complete with sparkle.

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Collection: Sophie Hulme
Season: Autumn Winter 2012
Website: sophiehulme.com
Collection of great nostalgia and wearability by Sophie Hulme. Really made my imagination run as wild as the inner child in all of us. Now, if I could just find my brothers old dinosaur toys, I'd resurrect them again to terrorize an imaginary village of barbies and trolls! A glamorous Jurassic park layout complete with gold mirror dinosaur, bloody marys and sandwiches, along with capsule collection. Sophie Hulme plays with the shapes of masculine and feminine to form the simple yet effective shapes to create a heavily knit collection combining mohair with cashmere and goat skin for a luxe feel. The bags of calf and eels skin were equally impressive complete with dinosaur charms and gold work.

My personal favourite pieces and trend look outs for a/w 2012 was the wool lace that ran across garments as dinosaurs, almost like they had been intricately cut from paper as a chain. The military gold work as well as the blouses with knitted pockets were intricate and had excellent attention to detail. A little gold childhood glamour never hurt anyone.

P.S. Also present was Sophie's capsule collection of suitcases in collaboration with Globetrotter. Let's get those dinosaurs packing, I feel an adventure coming on!

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Collection: Christian Blanken 
Season: Autumn Winter 2012
Website: www.christianblanken.com
Christian Blanken definitely doesn't do sweet. This collection was a masterful combination of sharp modern tailoring with clean and sleek lines. Sportswear meets urban street culture with the 60's and 90's as the energy that moved throughout the collection. It was a look to the future sportswear eras to come, in a world that seems to be defined by speed and communication was translated through images and textures of nylon and tv static. Classic fabrics such as cashmere and flannels were treated with sequins and layered with contrasting materials of feature panels and shearling overlays. Some great pieces were seen through the 90's most iconic garment in the tshirt, which had been revamped as a fluid silk and viscose evening dress almost as a continuous conveyor belt of fabric. Very glamorous and elegant look of simplicity that runs through a very complex piece of draping. An addition to the garments were the very beautiful leather and precious gemstone accessories. Belts were military inspired as utility belts with gold work details, along with gemstone cuffs all designed and in collaboration with jeweller Armenta. 

Belts and other accessories are the key for any winter wardrobe and surely the python with metallic foil overlay shoes as designed by Terry de Havilland, legendary British shoe designer will heavily feature throughout the a/w months, bringing the 60's stiletto a little modern glamour.

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